Searching for The One, The Perfect T-Shirt One

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Burda Style 2011-06-120

It’s still gray and dreary in London. So no picture update on La Chemise.

In the meanwhile I’ve started plotting the next assignation. I thought it’s about time I have a reliable block for a well-fitted T-Shirt. Shouldn’t be difficult right? Burda Style June 2011 had a T-Shirt that looked just  about right. A deeper scoop. Get rid of the back zipper – why would anyone need a zipper on a T-shirt I would never know – it’s not even a feature!!!???

I traced out the pattern – this time taking care
to recheck my measurement and pick the right size. Then I compared it to a Victoria’s Secret T I had which fitted quite well.

Surprise surprise. Burda pattern is like way too big! Going by the front alone it’s like 1″ wider each side – that’s 4″ wider at the bust. The armhole is lower / bigger. So how does it look so fitted on the model? Answer on a postcard please.

So what do I do? Go with the pattern? Go with a T I already know fits me? I’m inclined to go with the latter. That’s how I end up with all these improv patterns. Why do the pattern companies insist on frumpy proportions? Sigh. Maybe I should google around to see if anyone’s tried this pattern with any  success.

Blast from the past: back-burner CdG top

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Hurrah! La Chemise is done!

And for once I’m quite pleased with the result. There were hiccups for sure. But not bad enough to make me want to feed to the TBA pile. More about La Chemise soon. London weather has turned all Spring-y and changeable. So it’s too dark to take pictures. And a blog post is no fun without the pictures.

In the meanwhile here’s a blast from the past. Another back burner project. Another attempt to raise the glorious dead! 🙂

The sketch is from a long time ago, in a notebook I hardly use anymore.

Like most of my attempts back then, it was an attempt to copy designer clothing I couldn’t afford as a student – I was much more fearless back then. The inspiration for this one was…as the sketch indicates…Comme des Garcons’ Spring / Summer 1987 collection. I adored CdG at the time. It was my first designer love. This collection was quite feminine – a bit unusual for the avant-garde brand better known for weird baggy stuff. Actually there were a few seasons back then that were quite feminine / wearable.

My copies were mostly guesswork. Occasionally I got to examine the real deal in store and make a few sneaky notes. Sometimes the guesswork paid off. But mostly there were no cigars – like my various attempts to recreate Romeo Gigli Autumn / Winter 1989-90 coats…more about that epic attempt another time!

I made this top once back in the days and it was relatively successful. Unfortunately I don’t have pictures of the result from that incarnation.

I’m now hoping to create it again. This time with a thinner, flimsier jersey. I’m hoping for a slightly more fluid, drapy  effect, like the variation in the collection that was the same sort of bias-tape-lace effect, but on what looks like chiffon or voile.

I’m a bit worried that this fabric is going to stretch out of shape while I sew the bias tape on. Hence the procrastination. Maybe a bit of dissolvable stabilizer like those used for machine embroidery?

In the meanwhile, here are some more luscious CdG SS 87 clippings for you to oggle!

Comme des Garcons Spring / Summer 1987


Hopefully there’s method in the madness

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What do you do when you can’t decide? Go to Plan C of course!

In this case, a back-burner project that has sort of been in the planning for a while…A chemise type top, to be worn mostly under something else. I’ll show the inspirations & styling plans when it’s done. But the work-in-progress look so ridiculous that I just had to share…

Mad innit! Hopefully when the elastic is in it’ll look  sane again. I had to go to this extreme because I tried this gauze fabric – which used to be window drapes, though I think I bought yards of it in the dressmaking fabrics department…erm, where was I?

Oh yes, not limp enough nor crisp enough gauze. I tried to make a kaftan out of it. But it just made me look too well-fed as it was neither oversized nor fitted. So this time I’m betting on the gathering to actually making it look slimmer even though the ungathered state is way wider. I hope I can pull off this paradox. One things for sure, this one won’t be a No-Breathing Oops!

The pattern is sort of a Frankenstein’s monster – a mix of Burda Style 2010-02-117/118 and this simple instruction for Italian Renaissance raglan chemise I found online.

I’m just hemming it by hand now and waiting for the mail-order elastic to turn up – I couldn’t find any nearby, ridiculous isn’t it?

Stay tuned to find out if it goes onto my TBA pile or if you can really turn water into wine!

Next on the chopping block?

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Now the taffeta skirt is out of the way (or I’ve had enough of it anyway), what next?

One Night Wonders

I should really just follow one of the store-bought patterns. I’m in awe of self-taught sewers who manage to whip up something fabulous in a few hours from these home sewing patterns. I think the Selfish Seamstress and Alision C are guilty as charged. I’m sure there are others, it’s just that I haven’t caught them in the act (of bragging about it!) Mine always takes days, even for very simple stuff. As my mom said, I’d starve if I sew for a living. Anyway, it would probably up the chance of something being finished in time for the British (non-)Summer.

But I’m gravitating elsewhere…What usually inspire me are magazine clippings which presumably I’d need to make up patterns for. (My imagination doesn’t stretch beyond the dowdy images you see on pattern envelopes – much to my dismay.)

At the moment there are also some fabrics I’d really like to wear, but can’t quite decide on shape or form. Commitment phobia again. Usually what I do is take them out, drape them on, let the imagination run wild, then promptly put them back into the boxes until next time. They’re so full of possibilities uncut… Maybe that’s why I’m always weary of making dresses and instead veer towards 2-piece. That way at least some of the potentials remain. But sometimes dresses look nicer. Ahy decisions decisions!

So here are the candidates…

Ms Jersey Print

Ms Pomegranate Chiffon

Ms Flesh Chiffons

Ms Floral Habotai

Contestant 1 Ms Jersey Print

I wish the pattern were diagonal. Then I could have knocked off the Selfish Seamstress’ Last Dress.

But it’s regular as Swiss clockwork and I’m at a loss. When I saw it at the fabric store I had paired it with a blood red jersey. But my shopping trips nowadays are mad chaotic rush on short trips to NYC and inevitably means hard choices had to be made to fit them all into the luggage. The red jersey got cut, this one didn’t. But I’m not sure it is any good without its partner in crime.

I might still do a Diane Von Furstenberg style wrap dress. Am waiting for more live examples of Burda Blumarine (BS 2011-06-139) before deciding whether to go with Vogue 8379. The Burda Blumarine looks good on voluptuous Christina on Assorted Notions. But I haven’t got the rack to fill it out, so might look like the Kabuki man.

Funnily enough, I have a piece of fabric just like hers, which I was originally thinking of doing a wrap dress as well. But I might do something old school Jean-Paul Gaultier or a sleeveless cowl neck top instead.

Regardless of which one I go with I’ll be checking out these tips from Pattern Review of an original DvF pattern from the 70s to hopefully get her glam look.

Contestant 2 Ms Pomegranate Chiffon

This silky number I had for so long that the moths got to it first 🙁 I love love LOVE the color. But I can’t decide whether to do a slip dress, a scarf, and/or an evening jacket / warp. I only have 1-7/8 yard of the 43″ wide fabric. So it’s pretty tough choosing.

Contestant 3 Ms Flesh Chiffons

CdG SS 91

CdG SS 91 detail

I recently got into a fleshy phase. My last shopping trip was at least half flesh color. Yes, it can be a bit provocative. But style it right I think you can avoid looking trashy. Plus I needed slip dresses to wear under other chiffony numbers. Like the Comme des Garcons Spring-Summer 1991 stained glass dress I had from way-back-when which doesn’t get much wear because it’s too immodest.

But having drapped it two-tone-doubled as a one-shoulder dress, now I’m wavering about wasting them on boring slip dresses.

Contestant 4 Ms Floral Habotai

My mom gave me this so I guess it’s somewhat vintage. It’s absolutely gorgeous. And isn’t floral in this summer? (Or have I missed the boat by a few months?)

But again, I can’t decide. It’s so floaty it feels unjust not to have flounce. Maybe a halter top with ties that hang like a scarf…a bit like Anna Sui’s Vogue V2968?

Then again there are these beauties from old US Vogue clippings…drool…



Decisions decisions decisions!

A risqué 122 & her french pretender twin 112

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Burda Style Feb 2010 issue’s patterns 122 and 112 that is…

Burda Style 2010-02 Style 122

Burda Style 2010-02-122

Burda Style 2010-02 Style 112

Burda Style 2010-02-112

These I’m quite proud of even though the fit left something to be desired. For once I used up a piece of fabric within 3 months of purchase. That’s unheard of! Usually it’s years, if not decades. Or ever.

It’s cotton jersey, probably not of the best quality as 112 has started pilling a bit. But I managed to get 2 tops and a convertible headband out of 1.75 yards x 60″ wide. The hand is quite pleasant to work with. Matching stretchy stripes not so much.

And like almost everyone else who’ve attempted 122, mine refuse to stay on my shoulders. Granted I didn’t help things by lowering the back neckline. I also made the booboo of not altering the pattern for my “mature” boobs. I went for the skinniest size – dowdy-phobia again – but forgot to lower the underbust seam. It’s not end of the world though it does look like I borrowed some teenager’s top. The off-shoulder number I do need to fix though. I’m just not sure how yet. So another one for the TBA pile.

112 came out better. Hence the pilling from wearing it once too often. I lowered the neckline and shorten to 3/4 sleeves. And went for the skinniest size again of course.

So here is me striking a pose in it with a jersey tube skirt and a cashmere beret I made earlier. No, I wouldn’t go out in the full regalia. Or maybe I would! :0) You can get away with a lot more crazy dressing in a big cosmopolitan city.

And the headband is typically me – commitment-phobe. At least when it comes to sewing.

Without Bow
With Bow


How it works

The loop covering the joint is closed by hooks. There are two sets of loops for the hooks to latch on to, one set of which are thread bars. This is to accommodate the bow: with bow the loop needs to be looser, without it needs to be tighter.

Now if only my head isn’t so flat so the headband would stay put instead of slipping off the back of my head…

And as if that wasn’t enough, the tiny scrap leftover is going to MBP. That’s “My Blythe Pile”…

Lucky Girl

I must have been Scottish in my past life. Or blighted by rationing. The MBP is overflowing as well.