Pattern mug shots

mugshot-bg-2If you’ve read my pattern reviews before you’d know I’m big on mug shots. I wish everyone post them. I find them really useful when deciding to go for a pattern or not.

I’m very glad Vogue & Butterick seem to have started showing mug shots for their new patterns – at least on their websites if not the pattern envelope. Now they just need to get the model’s hair out of the way, and maybe choose plain fabric in colors that would really show up the style lines! But it’s a step in the right direction in my book.

Doesn’t entirely replace the pattern review communities like Pattern Reviews, Burdastyle, or sewing blogs of course. Fit models are still models with unrepresentative body shapes. Seeing examples of a design on different people really brings the pattern to life. And frequently you get great ideas from their different creative interpretations of the same pattern. But it’s good to see pattern companies taking note of online trends.

What about you? What would cinch the deal for you when it comes to pattern selection? (For a project that is. I know I’m not the only one to collect patterns just because I can!)

Heavenly Burda 2012-09-123 wrap up!

Finally! The write up about my Dolce & Gabbana inspired embellished Burdastyle 2012-09-123 T-shirt. I was debating whether to hold off until I make a matching gold A-line skirt to do style shots with. But that’ll take too long and I’ll have forgotten all my construction details. So here goes…

The Pattern

I chose this because I wanted a T-Shirt sloper from Burda to gauge the fit of Burda knit tops. This one is perfect because if you join the front yoke to the front bodice, it’s a very basic T-shirt. The neckline is high enough to be jewel neckline that you’d expect of a sloper. The style is fitted enough. The fitted long sleeve again makes it a good baseline to gauge design variation.

The only thing I’m not sure about is the ease in the sleeve cap. Is that really necessary in a T-shirt made from stretchy material?

The Embellishment Inspiration

Style Shots & Mug Shots

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Worn here with my Bird & Blossom Taffeta Skirt.
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This last one is with fabric for the matching gold A-line skirt
that I hope to make some day soon!

Fabric & Notions Used

Size Used

Size 34. Going by sizing chart instruction I would be a 38. Going by FFRP‘s instruction (chest/high-bust used as bust & choosing smaller size when in between) I’d be a 34.

Changes Made

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Fitting changes = T-Shirt Block
  • Removed 3/4″ from front & back shoulder seam. (1/4″ of the front amount was done at the front yoke seam to preserve neckline curve. The armscye curve no longer match the original, but matches the curve adjustment below quite well.)
  • Sloping Shoulder Adjustment: removed additional 3/8″ from front & 3/4″ from back shoulders at armscye end. Lowered armscye 1/2″.
  • Wide Shoulder Adjustment: extended shoulder by 1/8″
  • Protruding Shoulder Blade /Rounded Upper Back Adjustments: extended back shoulder additional 1/4″. But in retrospect I think I’ve overdone these. The difference between front & back was a whopping 3/4″. Even with the stretchiness of the fabric, I got a little bit of puckering in the back shoulder. Oops.
  • Narrow Back Adjustment: removed 3/8″-1/2″ from back side seam.
  • Wide Arm Joint Adjustment: scooped out a bit from lower part of armscyes – 3/8″ front, 1/2″ back. Extended side seams at underarm out by 1/4″. (So back underarm end up with a net change of -1/8″.)
  • Adjusted side seam curve for shorter torso – curve back out to hip higher up than in original pattern. (This was basically copied from my previous Cowl-Neck T-Shirt Block based on McCall 6078.)
  • Lowered neckline at center back 3/8″.
  • Thin Arm Adjustment: removing 5/8″ from both sides, but tapered to 3/8″ at underarm to match Wide Arm Joint Adjustment on bodice.
  • Reduced the cap height by 1/2″ & adjusted the armscye curve. This pretty much removed all of the extra ease in the sleeve cap that I was complaining about further up.
  • Shortened the sleeve by 1″.
Design changes
  • Redrew the front yoke seam line so that it’s more slanted. I’ve removed quite a bit from the front shoulder, so I was a bit worried that a short almost horizontal yoke might emphasize my relatively broad shoulder.
  • Lowered the neckline 1/2″ all around.
  • Shorten hem 2-1/8″ in the back &  2-5/8 in the front for a more flattering & versatile length between high hip and full hip.
  • Replaced original facing & back neck opening with stretchy self-fabric tape facing – I want to say bias tape, but for most knit the stretchiest grain would be crossgrain rather than bias.
  • I used the two sides of the same fabric for the contrasting pieces, and matched the sleeves to the front yokes for a pseudo-raglan look on the front.

Verdict on the Instruction

I didn’t really follow the instruction as I’ve made a few changes. Plus I wanted to work out a more efficient way to sew up a T-shirt and try out some of the techniques mentioned in my Singer Sewing with Knits book.

Here’s how I constructed this one:

  • Before I start, I spray starched and ironed the fabric edges because this one LOOOOOOOOVEs to curl. I also spray starched the edges of the pieces after tracing out the patterns.
  • Next I embellished with fabric paint on the uncut pieces. Embellishment details in my earlier post.
  1. Sewing-wise, I started with the front yoke like in the pattern instruction, but pressed the seam allowance down (to de-emphasize a broad shoulder). I also sewed one shoulder seam at the same time (stablized with clear elastic & pressed towards the back), and overlocked the bodice and sleeves hem edges.
  2. Next is attaching neck tape facing to the neckline. Because the neckline hasn’t been sewn closed at the other shoulder seam, this is essentially a straight line rather than a circle.  So the short ends of the facing are lined up with either ends of the straight line – ie at front and back neck edges of the other shoulder seam. Facing is then understitched – seam allowance pressed towards facing, edge stitching on the facing close to neckline seam.
  3. The other shoulder seam is then stitched along with the short edges of the facing – effectively an extension of the shoulder seam on the neck side. The facing is then turned under twice – like typical hems – and stitched in place from the right side of the bodice.
  4. Sleeves are attached to the bodice next.
  5. Then sleeve and side seams as one continuous seam line.
  6. Finally sleeve and bodice hemming.

The usual Walking Foot and stretch stitch on sewing machine advice applies. This time I tried to do as much on Bernie the serger as possible as Saffy the sewing machine was still unwell at the time.

My serger skill is still a bit dodgy. I tried step 1 without pins or basting and the ends didn’t line up. Urgh. Thankfully I discovered how easy it is to unpick the 3-thread overlock seam. Hmmm, should I be worried about the strength of these seams? Anyway, I ended up hand-basting most seams. It was still quicker than unpicking seams multiple times. Hopefully with more practice my serging skill will pass Great British Sewing Bee judging standards! LOL

Would I sew it again / Would I recommend it to others

You bet! Or at least the T-Shirt block I derived from it. Every girl needs a TNT  T-Shirt pattern. This will be mine.

And I’m just drooling over the possible design variations this opens up!

I love how this T-shirt turned out. The neutral color goes well with so many other garments. And the shinier pseudo raglan sleeves reminds me of a suit of armor. Together with the Byzantine icon on the front and wings on the back it makes me feel like a foot soldier angel in God’s Army!

If you missed the previous posts, here’s the full thread of on my Burda 2012-09-123 adventure.

The long & short of Great British Sewing Bee

Yes! I finished 2 garments. Though not in the amount of time the poor contestants of Great British Sewing Bee would have been allotted. You’ll have to wait a few more days to get the write ups, as I squandered the first Spring like day we had in London out in the sun.

For now let’s talk about GBSB. Because like all other self-respecting home sewists in the UK, I’ve been obsessing about GBSB, Googling every hour for more tidbits. And what controversy it’s kicking up in the sewing blogsphere!

Camp Ann/Sandra or Camp Tilly/Mark? Well, I’m not going to get into that debate because I would have kept them all in. Let’s not forget Michelle and Jane. I loved Michelle’s blouse customization and day dress ideas. I forgive her for the imperfect delivery. Let those without (similar) sins cast the first stone! And Jane and her funky ideas. What was her illness? Did she got sick of the silly rules of the game? After all, part of the fun of sewing at home is the chance to express yourself. And no, I haven’t forgotten Lauren – love your pockets in episode 2 – or Stuart – good on you for getting out of your comfort zone and taking on skirts and all manners of ladies wear.

Credit: Tilly & the Buttons

I have to agree with Chanel No. 6 that the format favors more traditional home sewers with decades of experience rather than the newer crops of self-expression sewers. You know, the type who might not have been taught sewing as a family tradition, but found voice in learning to sew. Which is a real shame. Question is, apart from the ridiculous time constraints, were the judges partly responsible for this bias?

The Judges


Obligatory Man-Candy Shot. Credit: Did You Make That!

The judges! I’ll leave the oohing and ahhing over the eye candy that is Mr Grant to the growing legion of swooning fans. What interests me is what he brings to the judging table. I was a bit confused when he started talking about his sewing experience. He didn’t sound like a Savile Row tailor to me. So what qualifies him to be a judge of a sewing show (apart from being an eye candy to appease the lady and gay sewists)?

It wasn’t until a comment on Chanel No. 6 blog that I appreciated what he might bring. Someone had speculated that he of Savile Row would be the force of conservatism and precision sewing booting out Tilly and Mark. But he rooted for Tilly. And re-watching the shows again, his comments betray a different sensitivity. Appreciation for quality sewing yes, but also for good design – “understanding of materials, shapes, and fit that goes into the making of beautiful clothing”. That’s the sentiment of a designer. And in fact, if you Google the man a bit, he seems to be a designer & entrepreneur who brought an ailing Savile Row shop into the 21st century. (And a photo of him in UK Instyle this month shows him in a much less conservative outfit.)


Credit: The Perfect Nose

I’d in fact argue that Ms Martin, the lady judge and sewing teacher of Women’s Institute would be more a force for tradition than Mr Grant. Savile Row may be purveyor of the fine tradition of bespoke tailoring, yet it has given us Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen, neither of whom can be called conservative by any means. Yes, Women’s Institute seems like a more conservative institution to me! OK, I don’t know much about it so I shouldn’t judge. But mention WI I immediately think 50’s Mums and Grans, preservers of family traditions and doing things the old way.

It was in fact Ms Martin who complained about Tilly’s “lack of process” and her blouse not demonstrating enough “processes” compared to Stuart’s – I presume she meant different techniques. Mr Grant at least acknowledged the design flair in Tilly’s blouse.

Which brings me back to why I now appreciate having a designer as a judge on a sewing show. One thing about home sewing that has never been quite satisfying to me is how some garments – even when it’s a copy of high fashion design like Vogue Donna Karan patterns – don’t always look as stylish as the originals. On regular women I’d understand – we don’t all have stylists and fab photographers following us around. But pattern envelopes use models don’t they? So why do they look, erm, excuse my French – frumpy?

I’d love to have a designer point out the difference in cut, you know, the secret ingredient of what Dennic Chunman Lo called a designer’s signature fit in his Pattern Cutting book. So Grant’s comment about the sleeve length of Ann’s first day dress for example. Of course it can be anything Ann wants. But if one is trying to achieve a current design flair, those little tips from the Industry are really interesting.

Which brings me back to another point about the format. I hate the eliminations. Not only because it’s cruel. But also because it means less projects for the judges to feedback on, and less variety of creative solutions to the same challenges to inspire us. (Same with Project Runway / Catwalk – I like the early episodes of each series better. More designs down the runway to get inspired by.)

So now it’s down to the final four. I’ll still be watching the remaining two episodes of the series. Because as Miss P pointed out, if we don’t show support for the show regardless of its shortcomings, then there will be no chance of better ones coming down the tube. Don’t forget your Facebook Likes and your Twitter Followings too!

And don’t forget to check out Tilly’s blog for some interesting tidbits about her experience on the show, as well as interviews with some of the other contestants!

Happy watching tonight!

Close but no cigar (aka Heavenly Burda 2012-09-123 part 4)

I could have shown you my finished Burda 2012-09-123 T-shirt. Except I couldn’t finish it. Because I had to send Saffy the sewing machine back to the hospital.

She came back last Saturday. Her unbalanced tension seemed to have been fixed. But oh no, what’s this, Needle Down setting no longer works! And I can’t live without the Needle Down setting. I don’t know about you, but whatever I sew, the feed doesn’t stay straight. I constantly have to readjust the seam allowance to keep the sewing on the stitching line. Stopping with the needle down and presser foot slightly up has saved many a sewing project here. Plus there are all those corner turning where it comes in handy too. So back to the sewing machine repair shop Saffy went today.

I’ve actually sewn up most of the T-shirt already. I just need to finish the stretch hemming on Saffy’s return. In the meanwhile I can show you the embellishment step.

You may recall from Part 1 that my take on this T-shirt is inspired by Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall / Winter 2013 Byzantine Princess collection


Photo credit: Style.com

2-embellish-f-1smallSo for the front, I went back to my art history lesson and pulled up this mosaic image of Byzantine Empress Theodora (who turned out to be pretty cool, an early feminist you might say).

  • First I turned the image into grayscale and fiddled with the contrast in a photo editing software.
  • Then I printed it out, scaling to the size I need, and traced the key outlines onto tracing paper.
  • Next using dressmaking carbon and a blunt plastic needle (used for sewing up hand knitting) I transferred the design onto the fabric which had the pattern pieces already marked out.
  • Finally I used 3 different metallic paints to fill in the outlines: Jacquard Lumiere 561 Metallic Gold for white areas, Jacquard Lumiere 552 Bright Gold for mid-tone areas, and Jacquard Lumiere 565 Metallic Bronze for dark areas. Then heat set with iron set at temperature for my fabric.
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For the back I used the Urban Threads wings embroidery design as planned. I was good though. Rather than ripping the artist off, I paid for easily affordable $1 hand embroidery design.

  • I printed this out directly on tracing paper with the design scaled down to 90%.
  • Then this was again transferred to the back fabric piece with dressmaking carbon and an old dried out ball-point pen.
  • The lines were then traced with the Jacquard Lumiere 561 Metallic Gold and Jacquard Lumiere 552 Bright Gold fabric paint, and again heat set with iron.
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Those of you with eagle eyes (and mind) would have noticed I committed a big sin in the process: Marking the fabric with carbon paper like there’s no tomorrow. And worse, pressing over the said markings without washing them out first. Yeah, I’m a rebel. So sue me! 😉 Bred in NYC I like my Edginess. So I don’t mind if the carbon marking won’t wash out. If you’re of posher or more conservative taste, then do find some other way of transferring your markings and designs.

Anyway, I’m off to find some other project I can work on with just Bernie the overlocker and handsewing.

Stayed tune for the conclusion to this Heavenly T-shirt project coming in a week or two!

T-Shirt Block: Burda 2012-09-123 part 3

Muslin No. 2

muslin2-planThis time I chose a fabric more like the muted gold one that I’m going to use eventually: The Cerise 4 way Stretch Soft Touch Lycra Jersey from Tissu Fabrics. The key ingredient is of course spandex / lycra. This one is slightly more light weight and more drapy though. So not so great for very fitted top which would show any lumps and bumps that we acquire along the way. Unless you’re wearing Spanx of course. Anyway, not great look for ladies of certain age. But as this is a color that I’m not too sure about, I don’t mind using some up for making muslins.

As for the pattern…


The green lines are original size 34. The red lines are my adjustments.

I made a few more changes:

  • Taken 3/4″ off front shoulder seam in the hope it’ll pull the upper back up and keep those sway-back wrinkles at bay. Let’s hope this won’t choke me in the front neck instead!
  • Raised the underarm part of the arm scythe back up, and adjusted the arm scythe curves slightly.
  • Narrowed the sleeve by removing 1/2″ from both sides. Actually, I compared the pattern to my most recent measurements for wrist, elbow, bicep, and high arm width (front crease to back crease). That’s how I determined I can comfortably remove 1″ from the sleeve along the whole length.
  • Shortened the sleeve by 1″ and reduced the cap height by 1/2″. Adjusted the arm scythe curves by slide & pivot method, joining up my new width and height reference points.

Here’s how it sewed up – or hand-basted together…

OK I cheated again. The less wrinkly underarm side had additional adjustment:

  • Lowered the underarm part of the arm scythe back down 1/2″.

It was too dark to take photos last night after my first basting. And I was too impatient to wait overnight before attacking that underarm wrinkle. As a compromise I only changed one side so you can see the before & after picture in one go. BTW it’s more visible in real life. Light condition is still not great for photo-taking, so it might not be so visible in the photo.

Final pattern for Burda 2012-09-123

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Again, green is original size 34, red is my final pattern, orange is Muslin No. 2 take 1. The few final adjustments are:

  • Shortened the sleeve a further 1″. Measurement-wise Muslin No. 2 should be correct. But maybe because this Cerise fabric is light-weight, drapy 4-way stretch, it succumbed to gravity and grew lengthwise.
  • Redrew the shoulder piece seam line so that it’s more slanted. I’ve removed quite a bit from the front shoulder, so I was a bit worried that a short almost horizontal piece might emphasize my relatively broad shoulder.
  • Widened bust area by 1″ total and sleeves underarm area by 1/2″ to match, so that I’d look less like a slightly over-stuffed and lumpy sausage. I also widened hip by 1/2″ total on the final copy of the pattern, but forgot to update this working copy.

And my Fitted T-shirt Block

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Although the final Burda 2012-09-123 is almost basic as you can get, it nonetheless has one design feature left: The slightly widened and lowered neckline. I want my T-Shirt Block to be like a second skin, with the minimum ease necessary, so that I can base a variety of designs on it, including turtlenecks. So the final changes added are:

  • Lengthen shoulder seam towards the neck by 3/8″.
  • Lengthen CF upward towards the neck by 1/4″.

So there you are, T-Shirt Block done. And Dolce & Gabbana inspired Burda 2012-09-123 in muted gold ready to roll. Once Saffy the sewing machine comes home of course.

Now what do you think I should do with the Cerise Muslin No. 2? Unfortunately I only added 3/8″ for seam allowance, so I can’t make it much looser. One possibility I’m considering is cutting a new front and make it into Burda 2013-02-113

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The back hip might be slightly too narrow. But maybe the extra fabric in the front will loosen the fit and hide the bulges. Lengthwise the Muslin is long enough to reach my hip – I tucked it up in the photo to see how a high-hip length fitted T-shirt would look like.

If you have any other suggestion for this Muslin No. 2 please share! Muchas gracias 🙂