OK, let’s get down and dirty. First off…
Size Selection & Pattern Alteration
I used my TNT cowl T pattern McCall 6078 to compare the Burda sizes with. 34 came closest, though according to sizing chart I’d be between 36 & 38 by bust measurement. I think Fit for Real People mentioned Burda 34 is equivalent of Vogue size 8, which is what I’m now using as my go to size with FBA.
Overlaying size 34 Burda 2012-09-123 (translucent tracing paper) on my adjusted M6078 (opaque paper), I decided for the back pattern to follow the M6078 shoulder line and side seam, trace the neck and arm scythe seam lines but cut on the Burda pattern cut lines.
The front was harder to compare since M6078 is cowl neck. So bust up is probably wider than a standard T-shirt block would require. So the only change I made initially is to graded out to size 36 at the underarm to match M6078.
Muslin no. 1
OK, these aren’t the initial results. I forgot to take pictures. These are after I made some further tweaks:
- Lower CB neck slightly.
- 1/2″ sloping shoulder adjustment on front.
- Truing the side seams by adjusting the front side seam curve to match back side seam curve – making sure that CF and CB are parallel (front pattern is now about 1/2″ wider).
- Lowered underarm part of arm scythe by about 3/4″.
I thought I’d fit the bodice first.
All in all I thought it fitted relatively well. I think I’m giving up on the sway-back adjustment for knit. I just can’t seem to completely get rid of those wrinkles in the lower back.
Then sleeves on. And what’s this?
They weren’t kidding about sleeves stretching things out were they? And I thought I was being clever fitting the bodice first to avoid any problem there throwing off the sleeves. Maybe that theory would work better with woven.
Part of problem might have been the wrong choice of fabric. This mid to hefty weight 100% cotton interlock jersey from Tissu Fabrics / Tia Knight stretches and stay stretched…Until the next time you wash it maybe. Then it’ll probably shrink on you. It is however quite lovely to touch and to sew with. The color range is also fabulously vibrant. Bright enough to need sunglasses.
But I don’t know. It’s not really me. I just can’t think of what to do with a fabric like this with little drape, a bit of heft, yet not stable enough for a light jacket or something.
I had used up some of the Turquoise for an earlier T-shirt Block attempt based on McCall 6612. I don’t feel chic in the result. So it’s only worn at home as a slob out top. Hence I’m not feeling motivated to use up what’s left of the Turquoise. I’m not even motivated to finish this first muslin.
And I still haven’t touched the 3 meters of the Bright Orange! This might be the rare occasion when I give away the fabric, send it to a better parent who know how to cultivate it to get the best out of it.
BTW the colors in the shop photos aren’t quite accurate. Even my Turquoise photos here look different from real life. It’s a bit duller and less blue. But the Bright Orange is brighter and not so yellowish and warm. That’s the peril of internet shopping. But I did read somewhere that Tissu Fabrics do send out swatches. Trouble is I’ve just never been patient enough to wait for swatches through the post!
Anyway, the pattern is now further adjusted and ready for Muslin no. 2. Stayed tuned.