Sewist Pride

While the new Ice Age hasn’t quite spread over to London from the US, my sewing has nonetheless slowed to a glacial pace thanks to going back to work full time. I am working on a snake print dress for Pretty Grievances‘ annual Jungle January party. In fact, I’ve been planning this since January last year. Fingers crossed it will be finished by end of January this year. More about this one another day.

What I did manage to finish (sort of) over the Xmas holidays are these muslins for my top and three skirt slopers. But I’m not going to go into details about the pattern-drafting and fitting this time. I’m feeling a bit fatigued with the nitty-gritty. In the depth of winter what one needs is some day-dreaming. And would you believe it, I’m actually rather inspired by these muslins.

I’m very tempted to turn these muslin into sewing-themed wearable garments. It sounds mad, but at least a couple of high fashion designers have already set the precedence…

Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1997 collection

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(More from Dusty Burrito blog…) How cool is that? OK, maybe not everyone’s cup of tea. But for someone who came of fashion age during the first wave of fashion deconstructionist era, yeah I would wear that.

Moschino Cheap and Chic Spring-Summer 2004

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I love the idea of wearing my sewing proudly. In this age of ready made cheap fashion it feels a bit rebellious to proudly declare oneself a home-sewist/sewer/seamstress/whatever.

Most of the muslins were made from an old linen color bed skirt, so already looks a bit like the MM dress form top. The only problem is that when I was cutting out I didn’t notice that the two sides are slightly different shades (sun fading?). So some panels are slightly darker shades than others. Oops. Will have to stew this idea for a bit longer.

In the meanwhile, I’ve also started planning the skirts I’m going to make from these skirt slopers:

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But these will have to wait a bit longer. I haven’t quite figured out all the construction details yet.

Plus I don’t want my snake print dress to miss another year of Jungle January!

Hats off to Issy Blow, Fashion Galore indeed!

I feel hungover today. Not from el vino mind you, though it is the festive season in one of the drinking capital of the world. No, I think it’s intoxication of the inspirational kind. You see, I went to see the new Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore exhibit at the Somerset House, London with a friend last night. And she was a living, breathing, walking work of art. Along with  live beautifully lived, if cut a bit too short.

me-and-issy

Issy Blow will not everyone’s cup of tea, but she represent such a unique British spirit. A bit aristocratic and eccentric, a heady mix of tradition and punk (in the same vein that Vivienne Westwood is too). Think Lady Gaga, but much more pervasive, seeping deeper into the pore of life. She is a truer heir to the surrealists like Schiaparelli. Though she’s a fashion editor rather than a designer, her discoveries and collaborations extends to her everyday and not just for shows and events. You feel she’s not just out to shock and impress others, but that she really enjoy her outfits and bringing them to life.

And I love how irreverent she can be with those priceless masterpieces of fashion too. I hate it when art is contained, treated preciously, starved of air. (In my youth when I was buying the occasional designer pieces I had similar attitude, wearing them to the painting studio, and yes once or twice gotten oil paint on them.)

The exhibit is of the extraordinary designer clothing, hats, and shoes she owned. They were going to be auction off to pay inheritance tax. But her friend and wealthy heiress Daphane Guinness halted the auction and bought the entire collection. She and other friends of Issy Blow put together this fabulous exhibit.

The collection famously contain Alexander McQueen‘s first collection from his fashion degree graduation show. And there are quite a few exquisite pieces by McQueen, who apprenticed with the fine tailors of Savile Row before getting his degree from the famous Central St Martin. I love his deconstructed tailored looks.


There’s a room full of the finest pieces from his Dante’s Inferno themed Autumn/Winter 1996 show. I wanted to take pictures for design and sewing inspirations, but was told off when the guards caught me after this one and only shot 🙁

mcqueen-aw-1996

I’m seriously considering paying another £12.50 to see the show again and bring along a sketch pad to note down all the inspiring details.

My friend doesn’t sew, so was more into the outre hats. Here are a couple of photos she managed to sneak in before being told off too. Stingy guards!

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There are more photos to be found here:

The exhibit is on until 2 March 2014. I highly recommend it. And hopefully it’ll travel to other edgy fashion capitals of the world, like NYC!

In the meanwhile, I must be off hunting for the best books on Issy Blow and Alexander McQueen! I feel so inspired to sew and make art, even if my everyday life can’t be as glamorous as theirs!

TNT Trench Odyssey: Part 1 Inspirations & Pattern

So the trench. Well, it certainly has been long in the planning. In fact, a couple of years ago I wrote that “it has shot straight to the top of the sewing list” because of various items lost due to impractically shallow pockets of my RTW version. I’m sure you know by now to take my sewing plans with a pinch of salt: It didn’t happen then. But it most definitely is happening now.

And as we’ve already taken the scenic route, I thought I’d continue that glacial pace with piecemeal reports on the progress rather than one whopping review. Watching paint dry has never been more fun!

Inspirations & Pattern

Back in Sept 2011, I gushed about the Selfish Seamstress’ stylish renditions of the classic trench in delectable prints. If I may Mistress Selfish, here’s a preview of her fabulous results. Be sure to check out her blog for full technicolor details:

She used the ever popular but now Out-Of-Print McCall’s 5525. So I’m using the same as my starting point.

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I plan to make some tweaks because although the results look great on Selfish, the pattern envelop photos look slightly dowdy. Also, I want this to become my TNT pattern for trench – and I do intend to make more in the future. So time spent now to improve the fit will be well worth it.

The fabric I have in mind – a long in the tooth cotton twill from the stash – doesn’t have enough yardage for a full view E. Also I don’t want to emphasize my relatively wide shoulder. So I’ll probably end up combining views D & E.

One way I might be able to get view E length is to follow the example of this fabulous Louis Vuitton design from a while ago…

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I got a yellow velvet and a brown paisley cut velvet that I can use for the extension. It might make the trench less versatile. But if I’ll be making more, then maybe one with a designer touch would make my wardrobe less boring!

One detail I’m definitely changing is the sleeve. M5525 comes with one-piece sleeve. Even my high-street RTW trench has two-piece sleeve for a supposedly better fit. Surely I can’t let RTW beat a me-made in fitting standards!

Stay tuned for the next installment!

Dissecting a RTW trench

Summer isn’t entirely over. But there seem to be a trend in sewing blogsphere at the moment for starting Autumn projects. My next project will also be a Autumn garment – a classic trench.

But I’m not trying to be trendy! Not at all. It’s because my only trench – a TopShop RTW number – is beyond putting up with. The hems are all fraying, the lining falling apart, mysterious stains refusing to come out. Nope, my hands’ been forced. And if I don’t start now I won’t have one in time for Autumn.

I was going to wait until my new replacement is made before retiring this RTW one. But I got curious about the innards of the RTW version and whether there are tips I can incorporate into my own make. So the RTW has been sacrificed to the gods of sewing geeks & dissected to bits.

I know not everyone’s a fan of RTW techniques – “RTW” sometimes being deemed synonymous with cutting corners. But I reckon this will at least show what is important, the bare minimum required. If even cost conscious manufacturers do it, surely we should achieve at least the same standard if not better. FYI this one was around the £100 price point.

Be warned, below are lots of (15) photos of the interesting bits…

Interfacing

Interfacing

Interfacing

Interfacing

Shoulder Pad

Shoulder Pad

Interfacing

Interfacing

Interfacing

Interfacing

Seam Allowances

Seam Allowances

Stays

Stays

Tacking

Tacking

Tacking

Tacking

Hem

Hem

Back Vent

Back Vent

Top Stitching

Top Stitching

Collar

Collar

Pockets

Pockets

Button Holes

Button Holes

The long & short of Great British Sewing Bee

Yes! I finished 2 garments. Though not in the amount of time the poor contestants of Great British Sewing Bee would have been allotted. You’ll have to wait a few more days to get the write ups, as I squandered the first Spring like day we had in London out in the sun.

For now let’s talk about GBSB. Because like all other self-respecting home sewists in the UK, I’ve been obsessing about GBSB, Googling every hour for more tidbits. And what controversy it’s kicking up in the sewing blogsphere!

Camp Ann/Sandra or Camp Tilly/Mark? Well, I’m not going to get into that debate because I would have kept them all in. Let’s not forget Michelle and Jane. I loved Michelle’s blouse customization and day dress ideas. I forgive her for the imperfect delivery. Let those without (similar) sins cast the first stone! And Jane and her funky ideas. What was her illness? Did she got sick of the silly rules of the game? After all, part of the fun of sewing at home is the chance to express yourself. And no, I haven’t forgotten Lauren – love your pockets in episode 2 – or Stuart – good on you for getting out of your comfort zone and taking on skirts and all manners of ladies wear.

Credit: Tilly & the Buttons

I have to agree with Chanel No. 6 that the format favors more traditional home sewers with decades of experience rather than the newer crops of self-expression sewers. You know, the type who might not have been taught sewing as a family tradition, but found voice in learning to sew. Which is a real shame. Question is, apart from the ridiculous time constraints, were the judges partly responsible for this bias?

The Judges


Obligatory Man-Candy Shot. Credit: Did You Make That!

The judges! I’ll leave the oohing and ahhing over the eye candy that is Mr Grant to the growing legion of swooning fans. What interests me is what he brings to the judging table. I was a bit confused when he started talking about his sewing experience. He didn’t sound like a Savile Row tailor to me. So what qualifies him to be a judge of a sewing show (apart from being an eye candy to appease the lady and gay sewists)?

It wasn’t until a comment on Chanel No. 6 blog that I appreciated what he might bring. Someone had speculated that he of Savile Row would be the force of conservatism and precision sewing booting out Tilly and Mark. But he rooted for Tilly. And re-watching the shows again, his comments betray a different sensitivity. Appreciation for quality sewing yes, but also for good design – “understanding of materials, shapes, and fit that goes into the making of beautiful clothing”. That’s the sentiment of a designer. And in fact, if you Google the man a bit, he seems to be a designer & entrepreneur who brought an ailing Savile Row shop into the 21st century. (And a photo of him in UK Instyle this month shows him in a much less conservative outfit.)


Credit: The Perfect Nose

I’d in fact argue that Ms Martin, the lady judge and sewing teacher of Women’s Institute would be more a force for tradition than Mr Grant. Savile Row may be purveyor of the fine tradition of bespoke tailoring, yet it has given us Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen, neither of whom can be called conservative by any means. Yes, Women’s Institute seems like a more conservative institution to me! OK, I don’t know much about it so I shouldn’t judge. But mention WI I immediately think 50’s Mums and Grans, preservers of family traditions and doing things the old way.

It was in fact Ms Martin who complained about Tilly’s “lack of process” and her blouse not demonstrating enough “processes” compared to Stuart’s – I presume she meant different techniques. Mr Grant at least acknowledged the design flair in Tilly’s blouse.

Which brings me back to why I now appreciate having a designer as a judge on a sewing show. One thing about home sewing that has never been quite satisfying to me is how some garments – even when it’s a copy of high fashion design like Vogue Donna Karan patterns – don’t always look as stylish as the originals. On regular women I’d understand – we don’t all have stylists and fab photographers following us around. But pattern envelopes use models don’t they? So why do they look, erm, excuse my French – frumpy?

I’d love to have a designer point out the difference in cut, you know, the secret ingredient of what Dennic Chunman Lo called a designer’s signature fit in his Pattern Cutting book. So Grant’s comment about the sleeve length of Ann’s first day dress for example. Of course it can be anything Ann wants. But if one is trying to achieve a current design flair, those little tips from the Industry are really interesting.

Which brings me back to another point about the format. I hate the eliminations. Not only because it’s cruel. But also because it means less projects for the judges to feedback on, and less variety of creative solutions to the same challenges to inspire us. (Same with Project Runway / Catwalk – I like the early episodes of each series better. More designs down the runway to get inspired by.)

So now it’s down to the final four. I’ll still be watching the remaining two episodes of the series. Because as Miss P pointed out, if we don’t show support for the show regardless of its shortcomings, then there will be no chance of better ones coming down the tube. Don’t forget your Facebook Likes and your Twitter Followings too!

And don’t forget to check out Tilly’s blog for some interesting tidbits about her experience on the show, as well as interviews with some of the other contestants!

Happy watching tonight!