Floral CdG FW1996 wannabe hoodie top

This one started with the fabric. Rejected for the Burda draped back T I felt I owed it one. Unfortunately it’s handicapped by having a 70s polyester hand, so not so comfortable against the skin. But the print reminds me slightly of a beloved 1996 A/W COMME des GARÇONS collection. I love the fancy duvet look, the contrast between rich brocade print & humble muslin – a bit yin & yang, just my cup of tea.

The Design

For the specific design, I went with a sketch of a CdG top I saw a lady wearing at the NYC Met Museum back in the days.

The runway shots don’t look as appetizing anymore, but the memory’s still rosy. And the fabric not precious enough to not risk it!

Style Shots & Mug Shots

WORN WITH: 1 Self-drafted Petticoat Skirt; 2 mid-rise Ginger Jeans 2018 + Camisole based on Burda 2012-04-128;

WORN WITH: 3 Self-drafted Lace Straight Skirt; 4 Modified Burda 2012-04-128 dress + Altered RTW HiLo Skirt;

WORN WITH: 4 Self-drafted Lace Straight Skirt; 5 Altered RTW HiLo Skirt;

The Pattern

Base Pattern Used:

Because I haven’t quite worked out a boxy Block yet I went with a commercial pattern as the base. There’s actually two versions of this Burda pattern and I had wanted to make both since the magazine came out. The other version – a tie front top – looked like the right amount of volume for my vague design. But my sketch had no CF seam, so I went with this pull-over version instead. It’s the exact same base pattern.

Size Used

Graded down to 34 instead of the 36 recommended by the size chart.

Changes Made

Fitting changes

Compared with Tunic Block & made the following changes to give me 3″ extra bust ease on top of the 1.5″ ease already in the looser fitting Tunic Block. As I said, baby steps!

  1. Removed 1/4″ from CB
  2. Removed 3/8″ from Front shoulder-sleeve seam to bring B & F to the same level

Here’s how this one compares with my recent ventures into loose fit tops…

pattern block block ease design ease total ease
BS 2014-02-117 v-neck T woven tunic 1.5″ 16.75″ 18.25″
BS 2018-01-106 draped back T knit loose fit 2.5″ 0″ 2.5″
BS 2016-08-125 tie front T knit loose fit 2.5″ 0.5″ 3″
BS 2014-03-119 (this top) woven tunic 1.5″ 3″ 4.5″
Design changes
  1. Omit sleeve & bodice peplums
  2. Extend bodice & create high-low hem (muslin lining is slightly longer than shell fabric to create the hem border)
  3. Extend sleeves
  4. Separated the kimono sleeve from bodice to conserve fabric
  5. Widen front neckline by 1/2″
  6. Bring back neckline up to jewel neckline (based on Block)
  7. Added hood with drawstring tie

Fabric & Notions Used

  • Fabric: Polyester 93% Lycra 7% Floral Jersey from Minerva Crafts UK
  • Lining: Cotton Muslin from the Stash
  • Notions: Vilene Bias Tape to stablise the necklines
  • Tools: Corn starch! (for temporarily stiffening the jersey & tame the edge curling for easier sewing & handling)

Construction Notes

Another blur I’m afraid. That’s the problem with the more experimental self-designs – figuring out the construction as you go along & not remembering the steps afterwards!

The only thing I remember is that the corner where the hood overhangs join the sides of the square front neckline was tricky to do neatly. I had to fudge with hand-sewing afterwards. Oh and that I might have bagged the lining with the opening at the hood-neckline seam (hand slip-stitch closed).

The Verdict

Not bad if I may say so myself. Unfortunately I ran out of fabric to make the matching dress long & kabuki like for full-on CdG effect. But otherwise a cute top. Just a shame that London has gotten too global warminingly hot to wear this right now.

6 comments on “Floral CdG FW1996 wannabe hoodie top

  1. eimearg says:

    adore this – thank you for sharing your sewing notes – coming into winter here and may try something similar as want something different than a sweater and I am not a hoody person but your hood is brilliant!

    • Go for it eimearg! That’s the joy of sewing your own – chance to mix it up to suit your own personal style! Don’t forget to have fun styling it. I find frequently the styling & wearing it with conviction & enjoyment makes a huge difference to how a garment looks. Having said that I still have trouble carrying off a more sporty style. Envy all the ladies who can rock a sneaker/trainer with style!

  2. Lynn Price says:

    I love this. BTW I really enjoy your blog and the detail you provide on the drafting. It’s wonderful to see you posting again.

  3. Susan says:

    Love this! Really appreciate you writing up fitting notes and design changes, too.

  4. cejay says:

    Woooooah, I love this. I really like that print anyway, but I love that you chose to make a boxy hoodie with it as well.

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