And the award goes to…

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onelovelyblogWow. Yours truly has been nominated for the One Lovely Blog Award by just as lovely MezzoCouture!

I want to thank MezzoCouture for her generous kind words about my blog. And I want to thank you readers too. Yes, you Lurkers as well as you Likers and Commentators.

And one mustn’t forget Pattern Review without which it would have been harder for us to find each other. For it was through Pattern Review that MezzoCouture found me by way of SewStashSew, who had linked to my review of Vogue 1159 Donna Karan dress probably after seeing my shorter review of that pattern on Pattern Review. And it through Pattern Review that I found MezzoCouture via her review of Vogue 1324 blouse and skirt – surprise surprise, another Donna Karan creation. So maybe I should thank Donna Karan too for their collaboration with Vogue Pattern that brought so many of us together!

Anyway, you should check out Mezzo’s version of V1324. I especially liked her blouse, which I think is closer in spirit to the original despite a different fabric choice than what was recommended on the pattern envelope. And I love that the result looks so good on her womanly figure rather than being fit only for tall stick insects model figures! šŸ˜€

Is that a long acceptance speech or what? OK, on to the business.

Being relatively new to the blogsphere, I had to Google this OLB award and find out what is all about. Seems like its origin is vague, but the rules can be easily found via other previous honorees. So here goes…

One Lovely BlogĀ Award Rules

1. Thank the person who nominated you and link back to them in your post.

OK. Done that. Thanks again MezzoCouture!

2. Share seven possibly unknown things about yourself.

But if I tell you I’ll have to … Just kidding.

  1. Many an obsession of mine started with Japanese Girl’s Manga. But not my sewing nor my humongous fabric stash.
  2. My English name Pia is lifted from one such Japanese Manga. A mermaid character would you believe it.
  3. I lost my sweet tooth somewhere along the road. But I can easily polish off a big bag of salty chips (or crisps as they call them here in old Blighty) any day.
  4. I once wore postcards as brooches. Thank God I lived in NYC at the time. Anywhere else (except in Japan perhaps) and I would probably have been bullied. In NYC, no one bats an eyelid!
  5. My favorite fashion magazine growing up was a Japanese one named after Olive Oyl from the Popeye cartoon. (Now you can see why I’d even think to wear postcards as brooches. Those crazy Japanese kids! :0)
  6. No, I’m not Japanese. By descent or otherwise.
  7. I was Coco Chanel in my previous life. No, really!(OK, you caught me out, I was already born when she passed.)

3. Nominate fifteen or so bloggers you admire.

Oh dear, where do I start? I’m subscribed to over 45 blogs on my Google Reader and discovering new ones regularly. Sadly some of thoseĀ  don’t seem to be updated anymore. Some are so popular judging by the amount of comments they get that maybe they’ve already had the award twice over. And can one nominate the person who nominated you in the first place? (OK, maybe Mezzo has too many link from one post already, and need to share the love around a bit! šŸ˜‰

So here are some random picks from the perhaps lesser known gems (judging by relative amount of comments) who deserves wider recognition. Maybe some will accept and pass on the honor to others.

  1. Bag’n-telle – by bag designer & educator Don Morin. One can never get enough tips from the experts! šŸ™‚
  2. A Little Sewing
  3. Allison C Sewing Gallery – who inspired me to buy so many patterns that I wouldn’t have otherwise given a second thought to.
  4. Chanel No. 6
  5. Did you make that? – OK, Karen gets oodles of comments. But she cracks me up.
  6. Goodbye Valentino – Brave lady campaigning to live another year without RTW purchases. I was tempted to join in. But I chickened out. I couldn’t do without more fitted cardies after the moths regularly decimate my wardrobe.
  7. I Can Make That
  8. Mercury – Handmade Fashion
  9. Miss P }
  10. Petit main Sauvage – Into the land of self-drafted patterns!
  11. Pretty Grievances – Another wisecracker to brighten your day!
  12. Sew Tawdry
  13. So Sew Lovely
  14. Handmade in Style
  15. last but not least, and this time not a sewing blog…
    Growlingbelly – a friend’s mouth-watering food blog

Dec 13 Correction:

The full rules of the game are actually:

1. Thank the person who nominated you
2. AddĀ The One Lovely Blog Award to your post.
3. Share 7 things about yourself.
4. Pass the award on to 10 nominees.
5. Include this set of rules.
6. Inform your nominees by posting a comment on their blogs

Oops. I blame Go0gle for not ranking their results by the clearest instruction criteria when I tried to find out the rules of the award! šŸ˜›

Better go tell my nominees now, even though some of them have already been nominated by other bloggers subsequently. See, they must be worth checking out if they’re getting nominated left right and center! šŸ˜€

Extra! Extra! Psychedelic Leopards NOT Extinct after all!

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Turqoise leopard print jerseyMe bad. The lovely turquoise leopard print jersey that I thought was extinct forever is actually still to be found in the fabric jungle ofĀ B&J Fabrics. So hurrah, I don’t have to fret about not having enough for a wrap dress anymore.

The price isn’t as steep I thought either. OK, at $15.95 per yard it’s not dirt cheap by most sewists’ measure. But knowing my former habit, I thought I had paid a lot more than that for this beauty. Having said that, by the time I add postage and Her Royal Highness’ custom and duty levies to this, the cost will no doubt balloon to 2-3 time the fabric price šŸ™ … Actually, they’re offering free ground shipping in the US. And I know sales taxes are normally not levied if it’s out-of-state order. Maybe I’ll have it shipped to my relatives in the US & pick up in the future. Now that’s a plan!

If turquoise isn’t quite your color, they also have the print in blue and purple.

Blue leopard print jerseyPurple leopard print jersey

There’s unfortunately no detail information about fiber content and care instruction. But it does mention spandex (lycra), so what you make from it should retain its shape relatively well.

By my unscientific measurement, it stretches up to 25% crosswise and lengthwise. With the added spandex, this make it a 4-way stretch fabric. You should be able to use it for patterns that require 2-way stretch fabric. As I said before, it feels a bit light weight and drapes quite well. So it would work nicely for patterns with a bit of drape – like those gorgeous Donna Karan patterns from Vogue Patterns.

La mia Boutique Nov 2012

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For a while now Iā€™ve been keeping an eye on Italian sewing pattern magazine La mia Boutique. Iā€™ve learnt about it from Fehr Trade, who generously shared pictures from her numerous international sewing pattern magazine subscriptions. Unfortunately some of the other ones that she blogs about like Spanish Patrones or Brazilian Manequim are impossible to find in London. Actually, the only place Iā€™ve seen La mia Boutique is in Selfridges department store on Oxford Street, London (in the Ground floor magazine section, Italian / international magazines shelves). You would have think London being so close to Europe and such a cosmopolitan and international city, that it would be easy. But no such luck. Anyway, one (besides the ubiquitous Burda) is better than none.

So La mia Boutique. The occasional issues Iā€™ve seen werenā€™t really my cup of tea. But the other day I came across the November 2012 issue and it was right up my alley. So Iā€™m now proud owner of one issue šŸ™‚

In case your taste differs and you want to know if itā€™s worth getting this issue, here are pictures of all of the patterns.

Classy yet Interesting…

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_02

The jacket was what caught my eyes. Itā€™s got some funky details, but the end result is a very wearable classy 60ish silhouette. Looks expensive. I like!

And the dress, so simple yet elegant, made even more desirable by the gorgeous print.

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_01

Iā€™m less crazy about these two. The sleeveless one on the left might work if you pick the right fabric with a bit of drape. Otherwise the length and volume would make it too bulky and unflattering. (See Paunnet’s review of this issue for another less flattering photo of this top.)

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_06

I like this coat too. I know, it doesn’t look like anything special. But this silhouette is actually the closest to my Top Shop Spring coat that I need to replace. So Yes! Result!

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_08

This shapely yellow coat with detachable fur collar looks quite interesting too. But I’m not sure the skimpy fur collar quite work. I think the recent Burda version (2012-08-103) would work better.

The dress again is another one with interesting details but a classy silhouette.

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_07

Ditto with this dress. Paunnet was lamenting the fact that the fabric choice doesn’t show off the interesting details. You can certainly highlight them with contrasting fabrics. But actually, I quite like the subtly of this execution. Different strokes right? Hence the importance of showing all so you can judge for yourself! šŸ™‚

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_09

The tech drawings (see below) for this jacket and the one just above are again quite interesting. But the results don’t do much for me. The one above is weirder – I probably wouldn’t ever make that one. But this one look classy enough that I may eventually make one a fabric that showcase the details better.

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_14

These are less interesting details-wise. But with the right fabric and styling choices, they’d make nice basics.

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_13A few more that aren’t as interesting for me. But maybe they’ll be right up your alley.

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_04
LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_03LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_05

And for you Curvy Loveliesā€¦

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_11
LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_12LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_10

And not forgetting the Little Onesā€¦

LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_17
LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_15LaMiaBoutique_2012-11_16

Tech Drawings for those who
donā€™t trust leggy modelsā€¦

And if it doesn’t come in exactly your size ā€¦

…There’s grading instruction / tips in the introduction section of the pattern instructions.

…which Google Translate turns into this…

Development of sizes

A method to increase or decrease the size of the pattern chosen

  1. Return on sheets of paper the various pieces of the pattern in the size closest to your own.
  2. To obtain its size by a model size immediately above or below, follow the variations suggested in the diagrams of this page.
  3. The figures below show the transition from one size to another with the relative displacement in centimeters. In our diagrams the solid line indicates the size detected by the pattern, the short dashed the smaller size, the hatch on the next size up.
  4. For other sizes, vary the displacement measurements indicated in diagrams of a single measurement for each size, but are advised to avoid overpasses to two sizes as not to alter the model line.
  5. If you really want to develop some sizes of difference, before cutting the fabric, you should wrap the head in a slight sliver of tailors and try it exactly. [Huh???]
  6. To shorten a model: Drill a horizontal fold on the tissue, to the extent necessary, to about half of the bodice and skirt.
    To extend a model: Cut the tissue in the same position explained above and place a piece of tissue paper, the required length (see page 38).
  7. For the grading of the rectangles follow the instructions given in the text (see Model).

The actual instruction for the patterns are brief like in Burda Style magazines. But there is an intro section with illustrated summary of some common sewing techniques / steps. Unfortunately it’s all in Italian of course. So probably best for sewers with a bit of experience who can decipher patterns and sew without detailed instruction. Otherwise there’ll be a lot of typing into Google Translate and a lot of Huh? and laughs!

Honey, really, I don’t have enoughā€¦

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The Spring Coat(s) have fallen by the way side of course. My next project(s) of fantasy desire will be fashioned from this gorgeous turquoise leopard print jersey from B&J Fabrics. Drool.

turq leopard print jerseyturq leopard print jerseyturq leopard print jersey

My initial thoughts were a cowl neck top and a wrap dress.

Actually, this fabric looks a lot like the one Assorted Notions used for her Burda Blumarine wrap dress (Burdastyle Magazine 2011-06-139).

bsmag-2011-06-139_tech

I donā€™t think itā€™s exactly the same, at least from what I can see of her close-ups. Mine has short strokes in the turquoise area presumably to simulate the furriness of leopard skin. Anyway, I love her wrap dress. But Iā€™m not sure it would work so well on my rectangular figure – you need a bit of VaVaVroom to bring this preternatural creature to live. But at least itā€™s an option.

Then thereā€™s Vogue 8379, a classic DvF style wrap dress that everyone seem to rave about.

V8379B_line

Or the slightly straighter Vogue 8784, though thatā€™s designed for woven rather than knit so might have too much ease.

V8784B_line

And for the cowl neck, I think McCall 6078 view B can be pressed into service again, maybe with an extended collar to up the drape quotient.

M6078B_line

Then I thought this cowl neck might be a good accent to build a wardrobe sewing plan around. Looking through my other swatches there are a few that would be a lovely combination with this. Hmmmā€¦maybe I should make that wrap dress a separate 3/4 sleeve top and skirt to up the mix-and-match possibilities.

Maybe Vogue 8790 for the top and Burdastyle Magazine 2012-05-113 for the skirt. I’d probably line the skirt with a power mesh for a bit more heft – this knit is a bit on the thin side. And I’ll have to insert a zipper because the fabric doesn’t really have enough stretch.

V8790C_lineBSmag_2012-05-113B_tech

I was getting quite giddy from the thoughts of all these possibilities. So imagine my dismay when I discovered that my 2-1/4 yards are not even enough for one of those wrap dresses.

With all my expensive fabric habit, I failed where it counts. Am so regretting not getting more. Now I canā€™t find anything as nice. šŸ™

It’s always the case. I’d find some heavenly but expensive fabric. I’d think to myself if I only get a yard or two it’ll still be somewhat affordable. And then I’d find myself afraid to make anything because I have so little of it that I can’t decide what to make. Where as the uglier cheaper stuff I’d get yards and yards, but then not be inspired to make anything.

Iā€™ll have to wait until my brotherā€™s gone home to spread out the fabric and see what I can possibly squeeze out of it. Wish me luck on that!

But what do you think? If you have 2-1/4 yards of this fabric, what would you make? And if you find a gorgeous fabric what’s the minimum you’d usually buy?

Fortuny Delphos Wannabe Dress

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Since thereā€™ll be no sewing done this month, letā€™s play ā€œHereā€™s one I made earlier.ā€ First up, my Fortuny Delphos Wannabe Dress.

The Inspiration

Mario Fortuny is a Spanish artist from the turn of 20th century whose lighting designs, Grecian pleated dresses and Renaissance velvet robes I really, REALLY love. Actually, my Gigli Wannabe Coat can probably be traced back to his influence via Romeo Gigli, Paul Poiret, and Ballets Russes.

He developed a way of permanently micro pleating silk which to this day no one else has figured out how to do. The closest modern equivalent would be crystal pleats or mushroom pleats.

Supposedly 70s designer Mary McFadden revived the use of these type of pleated fabric, but in polyester because they couldnā€™t figure out how to permanently pleat silk. Threads Magazine have a couple of articles on how to work with these type of pleats (10-11/1990 and 6-7/1993 issues, available on Threads Magazine Archive DVD). Both showed designs more influenced by McFadden.

Not really my cup of tea. (70s and early 80s arenā€™t really my favorite decades fashion-wise.) I much prefer the romantic Grecian style of Fortuny. To me, itā€™s not a fashion garment: Itā€™s a timeless classic. In fact, my favorite image of a Fortuny Delphos is this one of an obviously very old lady.

Doesnā€™t she look majestic! (Photos from Fortuny by Deschodi & Poli, and Fortuny: The Life & Work of Mariano Fortuny by Osma.)

I really wanted to make one just like Fortunyā€™s Delphos, with bateau neckline and all. But my fabric from the Cloth House on Berwick Street, London was a bit too stiff. I think itā€™s a rayon crystal pleat. It doesnā€™t burn like polyester, but it doesnā€™t have the sheen of silk either.

In the end, I found in my clippings this alternative inspiration:

I went for the one on the left, a simple sleeveless chemise dress with underbust and waist shaping. Slimming while still preserving the elegantly simple and classic spirit of a Fortuny Delphos.

The Making

The crystal pleat fabric was a bit difficult to work with. The micro pleats make the fabric spongy, stretchy, and unstable. But I couldnā€™t use fusible to stablize it since pressing would flatten the micro pleats. Plus fusible would make the fabric even stiffer. I wonder if a different base fabric might be more fluid. This one, though thin, was a bit like China Silk / Habotai ā€“ floaty rather than limp and drapy like Charmeuse, Georgette, or Chiffon.

I ended up draping and designing on Big Bertha, then hand-sewing the whole thing. Yes, hand-sewing . Actually I donā€™t mind hand-sewing . The part of sewing I hate the most is pressing. Hot and boring. Hand-sewing is actually kind of meditative. Not that Iā€™d deliberately turn to hand-sewing like the couture-loving crowd ā€“ my hand stitches are a bit too crooked for me to love them. But compare to having to unpick machine stitching, Iā€™d rather hand-sew for better control with fabrics like this. Besides, the micro pleats hide a multitude of sins! šŸ™‚

The fabric is cut in half for the front and back, pinned at the sides and shoulder, put on Big Bertha. Then style tape is laid on top to determine the neckline, armholes, and underbust shaping. I basted the tape to the fabric while it was still on Big Bertha to temporarily preserve the shape, then hand back-stitched along the edge of the tapes before removing the tapes.


The neckline and armholes are cut to the stabilized edge with about 1/4ā€ hem, then turned faced with bias tape made from off-cuts that were pressed flat. These edges were then overcast with decorative metallic knitting yarn for a more defined shape and rustic look like in the inspiration photo. The overcast along the front neck edge crisscross at CF and continue under the bust, then around the back. On the inside, the overcast couch the black elastic which I thought might help preserve a closer fitting shape while still provide enough stretch (like the pleated fabric) for comfortable breathing. But Iā€™m not sure it works as intended. The shoulder and side seams are hand-sewn french seams, and the skirt hem hand-rolled lettuce hem.


While experimenting with the draping, I decided I quite like this open back look too. So for CB closure, instead of buttons on one side and loops on the other side of CB, I sewn buttons on both sides. Then I made separate double-loops to pull the two sides together for a more conservative look, or left the top double-loop off for a open back neckline.

Despite the hassle of hand-sewing the whole dress, Iā€™m quite pleased with the dress. Especially when it packs like thisā€¦

fortuny-dress_2detail_10.jpg

Then unpack to thisā€¦

Style Shots & Mug Shots

Yeap, this dressed made it to Maldives too. Itā€™s not the most practical dress ā€“ not what youā€™d call a wardrobe builder. And not particularly practical for chilly London. But feels just right in luxurious Maldives! I felt like one of those Grecian ladies from an Alma Tadema painting.  šŸ™‚


And for a slightly Medieval feelā€¦with my beloved 1980s Comme des GarƧons scarf ā€“ my first designer purchase back in High School and still in circulation decades later despite the moth holes. Plus the ceramic cross pendant my friend gave me – my Cow Bell I call it ā€“ dropped, broken, and glued back together again. I do get rather attached to some things. Not very Buddhist. Or with a slightly Indian flavor, worn as a skirt with another two old makes: a S/S 1989 Gigli inspired wrap top and a Indian choli (cropped fitted top).