Aside

Vogue Men’s Patterns Give-Away

OMG, I finished a top! But the sun has gone down now. So too late to show & tell. Another day then.

Between the craziness of a new job and redecorating at home, I haven’t made much progress on the sewing front. But I have gone through my pattern collection recently, and earmarked a couple for a Give Away.

Don’t get too excited yet. These are men’s patterns. Sorry, I’m hanging on to most of the women’s ones, even if many are a couple sizes too small now. Hoarder’s finger grip is strong. You can pry those other patterns off my hand over my dead body! šŸ˜‰

So here they are:

Give-Away 1: Vogue 1928 Men’s Jacket, Pants & Shorts, chest sizes 32-34-36, uncut.

Loose-fitting, partially interfaced, lined, below hip jacket has shoulder pads, side panels, no side seams & long, 2-piece sleeves with mock vent & button trim.

A: collar, flaps, & pockets. A,B: welt. C: button/loop closing. B,C: side front pockets.

Shorts, above mid-knee or tapered pants have waistband, carriers, side front/back pockets & mock fly zipper.

D: stitched hems. F: cuffs.

Give-Away 2: Vogue 8918 Men’s Pants, waist sizes 26-28-30, cut to 30.

Tapered pants have front button wasitband, carriers & fly zipper closing.

A: side front welt pockets. B: shaped, side front pockets & back pockets. C: side pockets. A,C: back button welt pockets.

Both are not in the pattern envelopes anymore. But neither have been used. My other half has gotten a bit too well fed for these to be useful to me. So in the spirit of freecycle, I’m passing these on to those who can make better use of them.

How to get these:

It’ll be on a first come first serve basis. I’ve been a bit negligent in updating this blog, so I don’t expect there’ll be enough instant traffic for a proper prize draw.

So just leave a comment with your email address and I’ll get in touch to get postal address.

OK, I’ve been bad

But I have good excuses for the long absence. I’ve been touring the world visiting family. Literally. London to Taiwan (via HK) to New Zealand (via HK) to Australia to Los Angeles to Columbus and back (via Los Angeles). Mea Culpa on the carbon footprint. And it isnt’ as glamorous as it sounds. I’m totally fried from all those flights. I need a holiday!

On the plus side I did check out fabric stores all over the world. The only omission is in Taipei, where I didn’t discover where the fabric district was until it was too late. But since then, I’ve made a point of seeking them out.

So here’s the low down of where I visited. And my latest acquisitions.

Taipei,  Taiwan

There’s a whole bunch of fabric shops to the northwest of Taipei Main Station around Nanjing West Road (å—äŗ¬č„æč·Æ) & Dihua Street (čæŖåŒ–č”—). I only found out because the bus to the National Palace Museum passed by these shops. And now I Googled, there seems to be a fabricholic’s paradise called Yongle Fabric Market (永樂市堓)… Must. Visit. Next. Time…Drool.

Christchurch, New Zealand

Christchurch is rather too suburban for my taste. Especially as I don’t drive. It was next to impossible to find the fabric stores. So I only got to visit one: Fabric Visionā€Ž (39 Main North Road, Papanui, 8053).  And within 5 minutes of arriving it was closing for the day ( it was only 4pm). Looks like a typical suburban fabric store. Not huge, but enough variety when you’re desperate. Needless to say I didn’t get anything here.

But I did experience some earthquakes. A bit like bad air turbulence. Luckily it only lasted a few seconds. Any more I would have freaked out.

Sydney, Australia

Sydney feels a bit more like NYC, but more outward looking. I mean towards the harbors and sea. So maybe that’s why it doesn’t seem to have a centralised fabric district. I could only track down two fashion fabric stores: Tessuti Fabrics (110 Commonwealth St, Sydney NSW 2010) and The Fabric Store (21 Cooper Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010). Neither are huge. Both seem to organise fabrics primarily by color. What does that says about Aussies? šŸ˜‰

I did have minor success here. I got these lovely asian looking nylon-spandex silky prints from The Fabric Store. They are designer fabrics, but I can’t remember who. And anyway, it wouldn’t have mattered as I won’t buy something just because it’s designer. The only disappointment is that the print is naturally just one side. So the wrong side is rather ugly. And being totally synthetic, it might get a bit sweaty to wear. Imagine if it were pure silk….

And at $30/yd, it’s up there with my typical NYC purchase. Ouch.

Los Angeles, California, USA

Even before I left London I was excited to stop by Los Angeles. For I had Googled and found a LA Fashion District site indicating there’s a Fabric District. Plus from Project Runway Season 6 I knew there was a branch of Mood Fabrics in LA.

The problem is LA is another very spread out town. And by now I’ve lost my chauffeur – aka le Boyfriend. I end up spending most of my time on buses, because frustratingly Mood isn’t in the Fabric District.

But boy was I glad to have stopped by Mood. For when I got to the Fabric District, I was rather disappointed to find mainly small cheap shops, many selling pretty much the same not so high quality stuff.

(Sorry, picture from Google Map. Too tired to take any of my own.)

But hey, if you want $1/yd fabrics to experiment with, this is the place for you! Never have I found fabric so cheap. (OK, maybe Taipei or some 3rd world markets if I had visited.)

If my suitcase had been bigger and US Airways not charging the earth for baggage, I might have picked up some of these dirt cheap fabric anyway. For fitting muslims they might just fit the bill. But as I was on a trip taking me from the height of summer (28°C) to the depth of freezing winter (-6°C), there was no room for mindless purchases.

Here are what I managed to pick up in LA:

Faux fur
Flesh color jersey
Flocked denim

All from Mood. Roughly dressed up how I envision I’ll use them.

Faux croc leather in red & brown (from LA fabric district)
Grey denim with a touch of stretch (from Mood)

I think the faux leather might have been from Deco Design Fabrics, 512 East 9th Street in Downtown Los Angeles. I got them primarily to make handbags, after being inspired by Bags You Can Make blog.

The denim is to replace my beloved Miss Selfridge peddle pusher jeans that I worn to death. But I might try to squeeze a tailored jacket out of it too.

All together these cost me like $125 for 8 yards. That’s like a tenth of what I spent on my last trip to NYC! (Give me luxury fabrics over designer anything any day! :-D)

Oh, and one mustn’t forget the lovely Fashion Bookstore inside the California Market Center building on 110 E 9th St. It’s got an amazing range of fashion & apparel books & magazines, including plenty of sewing, fitting, pattern drafting ones. I wished I had more time to browse.

Columbus, Ohio, USA

And Columbus has…Jo-Ann’s. And more Jo-Ann’s! I’m sure I’d find something to buy if my stash wasn’t overflowing. But there’s nothing special here that would have parted me with my money despite myself.

On the other hand, I love browsing these warehouse size craft shops. If I have one nearby I’d no doubt squander lots of loose changes in it!

And the conclusion?

There is still no place like home. That’s NYC, not London (despite me being here like forever now). The wallet might be happier else where, but there’s still nowhere that beats NYC garment district for sheer concentrated fabric lushness.

Care to contradict me? Where do you love to shop for fabrics and why?

‘Tis the season for sharing after all

I wish video internet was as viral when I made Big Bertha as it is today. Today I got a spamail from Threads magazine advertising their latest Dress Form Making tutorial. Boy, was I glad I didn’t junk it straight away. It turned out to be a great video tutorial on making a Duct Tape dress form. Quite a few good tips it has. And clear video demonstration obviously doesn’t hurt either. Enjoy!

Make Your Own Dress Form: Part 1

The Fitting Hampster Wheel

Urgh, the Sloper 2011 project is really dragging me down. A couple of weeks into my sewing holiday and I still haven’t made anything. Instead all my energy has gone into trying to perfect a new sloper. The idea is that once I get this basic fitting shell right it’ll open up a whole new world of design. So much for the theory! Here’s what really happened so far…

Draping on Big Bertha

My last sloper was also derived from draping on Big Bertha. But either the draping instruction wasn’t very clear or I’m not very good a following instruction, the fitting lines seemed off. So this time I vowed to keep the bust, back bodice, and skirt fitting lines level with the aid of gridded pattern fleece (a bit like non-woven interfacing, but for pattern drafting & fitting, source long forgotten!).

So far so good. And I discovered a good use for my used needles: They’re great for pinning into Big Bertha / Duct Tape Doubles. Yes, they still gum up. But they’re more sturdy. And the larger, rounder end that fit into the sewing machine also provide a good and less painful grip for pinning into Big Bertha’s thick skin.

So voilĆ , new bodice sloper!

This time I also tried to keep all other darts as symmetrical as possible to minimize the amount of adjustments needed for future pattern fitting. But see how the left shoulder still slope more than the right? And it wasn’t a simple lowing the shoulder and underarm seams. The armhole actually scoops in more.

As a precaution I decided to try these non-woven fitting shell. And shock horror, it’s not perfect. I can’t remember exactly what happened next – there’s been like 9 fittings since – but anyway, I got it into my head that my right shoulder also slopes and Big Bertha is no longer my faithful twin.

I decided to use the sloping left side for further fitting trials. I think this photo was taken after that though I can’t be sure any more. See how the right side now look about right.

On to gingham fitting shell hell

I followed Connie Crawford’s instruction for drafting a sleeve pattern, then proceeded with the gingham fitting a la Vogue Pattern instruction. And here’s the initial result:

Erm, where did that big horizontal wrinkle on the back come from???!!! And the sleeves, see those dreadful twisted drag lines. Urgh!

I checked my other books and decided the sleeve might have been drafted incorrectly. I didn’t exactly followed Connie’s instruction to the T. She’d have you draftĀ  to standard sizes. But what’s the point of standard size sleeve on custom sized bodice? Anyway, I know my arms are skinnier than standard, so I adapted her instruction for custom larger sizes. But this resulted in a 2″ ease. When I later checked my draping book sleeve drafting instruction, it says the ease should be no more than 1.5″. So that might have been part of the problem. But the twisting…I have no clue.

I decided to remove the sleeve and check the fit again, in case the rogue sleeves were distorting the fit. Still no luck. Back bodice still wrinkled. The bust fitting line isn’t level and there are folds at the side seams. The skirt too had diagonal wrinkles from front high hip to bottom of back buttock. And the hem swings towards the front slightly.

Anyway, tweaks after tweaks later, I finally did away with most of the back wrinkle in fitting 7. But now the whole bodice is hitched up about 1″.

I checked the shoulder slopes and, erm, they’re like the original Big Bertha draped results! I’ve gone the full circle and I was feeling really sorry to have doubted Big Bertha.

So I undid the whole basting, retraced the original draped slopers, rebasted, and voilĆ …

Huh? The back horizontal wrinkle is back???!!!

By this point I’m feeling a bit like this, but obviously not as cute.And my apartment is a mess
with patternmaking & sewing bits & bobs strewn all over…

Oh, I forgot to mention, in the process Big Bertha has also acquired an arm and me a few cutsĀ  from my boyfriend trying to free my arm from the Duct Tape shell. There’s her arm in the top picture…not that I’ve done anything useful with it since.

Plan B C

In my typical fashion my solution was to order more books! Thanks to a birthday Amazon gift voucher, 3 more fitting books are on their way to me. (Plus 2 on serging.) I’ve finally succumbed to the sewing community’s rave reviews and ordered the Palmer/Pletsch fitting for Real People series.

I also ordered Fitting & Pattern Alteration 2nd edition (far left). I actually have the first edition already (near left). It’s like an encyclopedia of fitting issues. But because it’s mostly drawings, and each fitting problem is shown separately, I still wasn’t able to figure out how to solve my compound fitting problems. The new edition seems to have more photographic illustrations. And some reviewers mentioned clearer explanation on order of fitting. I’m hoping these changes will be enough to help me get off the Fitting Hamster Wheel on to the straight road of finally cracking that fitting shell!

In the meanwhile, I’m going to Plan C: looking for some simpler, less fitted projects to put the joy back into sewing.

What about you? Have you had fitting problems sapped the life out of your sewing? How did you crack it?

Oh boy! New toy(s)!

The other day the door bell ranged, and I thought it might be the tracing paper I ordered for pattern drafting.

The long & short of tracing paper in the UK…

Morplan ‘tracing paper’,
next to Big Bertha for scale.

I had previously ordered a roll of “tracing paper” from Morplan, which turned out to be absolutely useless for tracing. It was in fact opaque, despite being described as “tracing paper” and lightweight at 45gsm. Plus it was so humongous and heavy, it’s quite an ordeal to unroll and cut a piece off for use. Still, it would be too much of a waste to throw away. So I kept it for pattern drafting that doesn’t involved tracing, or for tracing commercial pattern with a tracing wheel. But for my current nth sloper project, I needed translucent paper so I can trace & pivot easily.

Before that I had gotten all my tracing paper in America. So I don’t know why it’s so difficult to get proper tracing paper here in the UK. I know others used greaseproof paper / baking parchment, and that was going to be my back up plan if I can’t find any proper tracing paper in the UK. But as they tend to be narrow, so require taping for bigger pieces, they aren’t my first choice.

Artifolk tracing paper,
next to Big Bertha & Morlan’s version for scale.

I eventually ordered 3 rolls of 33″ x 27 yd (84cm x 25m) 62gsm tracing paper from Artifolk.co.uk. They were the cheapest art / office grade tracing paper I can find and works out about Ā£0.89/sq m if you order 3 rolls or more. That’s about twice the price of greaseproof paper, but you get the advantage of wider width. If you need wider still, London Graphic Centre has slightly more expensive 63gsm tracing paper rolls that are 40″ x 21.87 yd (101.6cm x 20m).

One thing I found out is that you can’t judge “tracing paper” by the paper weight indicator – the gsm number. I read a few discussions where people were assuming lower gsm means more transparent. As my experience with Morplan shows, that’s not the case. You must look for “transparent” or “translucent” in the description.

Morplan (white bag pattern)Ā  Ā  vsĀ Ā Ā  Artifolk (translucent sheet over sloper)

The new rolls I ordered are indeed proper tracing paper. They’re heavier weight, but similar to some of the tracing paper I’ve used in the past. So I know they’ll be fine.

But what an ordeal to get them delivered – thanks to the new & improved (not!) Parcelforce service. The door bell turned out not to be the paper. No, I had to trace my package online only to discovered it was sent via their new deliver to psychics only scheme. Basically, you had to guess when the courier will be at the door. No door bell, no sorry-you-were-out card. If you guess wrong, then your package is going back to the sender. Clever innit. Unfortunately my psychic power is a bit anemic and I nearly missed my package. Thank god for online tracking. But no thanks for having to trace and retrieved the heavy package from not the nearest post office, but the one 15 minutes away. British logic really confounds my simple American mind sometimes.

Now back to the door bell…This was in fact an altogether much more pleasant surprise…

My very first serger / overlocker

There’s a story to go with it as well. But first I have to thank Lakaribane for steering me towards a sergerĀ  instead of a handbag for my birthday present. I did consider the highly praised Brother 1034D as well.

But in the end I went for this also highly praised Bernina 1150MDA because I thought I might want 2-thread overlock stitches for a flatter seam allowance finishes on woven garments.

I was considering Juki too because I see it so often mentioned as an industrial brand. And industrial means reliable and professional right? But Juki seems hard to come by in the UK. Then I read somewhere that Bernina sergers are in fact made by Juki, but with a heftier price tag. And as my boyfriend’s paying…Mea culpa. I think this will have to be my Birthday presents for last year, this year, and next year.

It could have been worse of course. I could have gone for a Baby Lock Evolution like the Selfish Seamstress. But Ā£1000+ present seems obscene to ask for. And I was paranoid that the miraculous Baby Lock air threading system will one day breakdown and leave me in tears. I work with computers. So I don’t trust clever clever technology!

But I almost didn’t get this Bernina 1150MDA.

I went down to the local sewing machine store and asked for Bernina 11-something serger. The guy told me they don’t make that model any more and tried to sell me a Frister & Rossman overlocker.

Now that wasn’t a clever move. Throw a curve ball at me like that and I’m more likely to walk out the store empty handed. I would have to go home and confer with my online sewing community first before making my mind up.

I had in fact come across mention of Frister & Rossman on an UK sewing forum, but hadn’t seen enough reviews & mentions to trust it. They did had the Brother 1034D. But actually, comparing the rolled stitch sample they had set up on the F&R and Brother, I had to say no to the Brother one. It looked crooked and amateurish. And I don’t know enough about serger to tell if the Brother was simply poorly set-up. The F&R sample seemed better. And it was branded Jaguar! Now that would have been funny to brag about. But it was a 3-4 threader.

I was about to goĀ  home empty-handed, but decided to ask about the next model up in the Bernina line. That’s when he checked his catalogue and we discovered that we were talking at cross-purpose. They do indeed carry the 1150MDA – as advertised on their own website no less! But he thought I was asking about a previous version, a 1100 or something. Next time I’ll know to memorize the exact model number!

So the deed was done. The order placed. The boyfriend’s credit card handed over. It was to be delivered when they can source it from another branch in about a week.

Then a mere 2-3 days later the door bell rang and my present arrived. Hurrah! But my boyfriend made me wait till my birthday to open it up. Boo.

So, my birthday finally arrived. And here’s the Bernina 1150MDA strip-tease…


And that’s as far as I got with my new toys. Now back to that d*** sloper & fitting puzzle!Ā  }:-|