Stripy Burda 2018-01-106 T with back drape & cutout

In theory this combination of pattern (just enough twist in the back) & fabric (just enough sparkle in the stripes) should have given me Sports Luxe. But Reality always gets her own ways and the result was a bit of a disappointment.

The Pattern

I mean look at that back. Just look at that back. How can I not be seduced? I knew I wanted to make this, but wasn’t sure which fabric – this stripe or the floral you see in the dress below. Of course I asked DH & promptly picked the other one. 😈

Style Shots & Mug Shots

WORN WITH: 1 Burda 2012-04-128 Dress;

WORN WITH: 2 Ginger Jeans ’18;

Size Used

36, as recommended by the size chart & chosen because it’s closest to my Dartless Semi-Fitted Knit Top Block

Changes Made

Fitting changes
based on comparison to Dartless Semi-Fitted Knit Top Block
  1. Bodice – tried to get shoulder angles to match my Block + back side seam to mirror my Block (ensuring between F & B there’s similar amount of ease to my Block)
  2. Sleeve – shortened. A bit too much. Ended up with uncomfortable thumb holes, so had to close them up & live with just plain old long sleeve.
Design changes – none

Fabric & Notions Used

  • Fabric: Cotton & Lurex Stripy Jersey from Moods Fabric NYC
  • Notions: Vilene Bias Tape.
  • Tools: Corn starch (for temporarily stiffening the jersey & tame the edge curling for easier sewing & handling)

Construction Notes

  • Stablised both back neckline & shoulder seams
  • Tidied up the innards by
    • sandwiching the seam allowance of right back facing / drape / left back seam
    • used binding on left back cutout to hide ugly interfacing

The Verdict

Meh. Both front & back look a bit more frumpy than in the pattern photo, which looks longer (bum length?) & with more fluid drapes. I didn’t shorten the pattern, so I’m putting this down to different body proportion compared to the model.

Sadly, unlike my last foray into loose fit, this one I haven’t quite made peace with yet.

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5 comments on “Stripy Burda 2018-01-106 T with back drape & cutout

  1. Thank you for doing this review – I was also tempted by this pattern but wasn’t sure that it would look the same on me as on the model. It’s great to see it made up and worn from different angles. In trying to analyse the difference between your photos and the original pic I think that the model is probably wearing a size larger than her true size as the fit on the bust and shoulders is not as good as yours but the effect then is a bigger drape and looser flowing fit. I think the jersey they used is also lighter weight which I have found makes a big difference even when using the same pattern. I have two t-shirts from the same pattern – one in a tighter thicker jersey and one in a looser cheaper jersey. The latter feels much looser when on even though they started from exactly the same size pattern.
    Anyway just wanted to say a big thank you as this post is a great help!

    • Thanks for sharing your useful observations that help people get the look they want by exposing the tricks that the industry use to create an illusion which most of us can’t achieve. πŸ‘

  2. Giulia says:

    I think that your disappointment may have to do with the fact that the fabric has a motive. At least from my point of view that pattern was meant to achieve a “cos effect” : interesting pleating and unusual form on plain fabric.
    This gets killed (becomes too busy) with a non-plain fabric.

    I experience this often because as much as I adore the “cos effect” I also have a hard time buying plain fabric and my dream patterns never match my dream fabric πŸ™‚

    This is of course just a suggestion, you may meh this for completely other reasons.

    • You’re probably right. I originally thought that the drape would showcase the stripes by playing with the directions of the stripes. But of course it all depends on how the drapes are formed. Didn’t really think this one through properly. The end result is rather boring. #HalfBakedAnalysis sigh

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