Baby step back to sewing

My first sewing project post redecorating is a simple restyling of an old H&M leopard print slip dress.

It never fitted properly on the top. Plus with typical London Summers, there wasn’t much chance of this Tropical Baby wearing it as a slip dress. So it was mostly worn under a black tee.

But the ill-fitting top showed through as unsightly bumps. I finally decided to chop off the top and make it into a proper skirt.

The Alterations

Shape-wise it was neither here nor there. Too loose to be a pencil skirt, but too narrow to be an A-line skirt. As a dress it worked, just. For the longest time I had a brooch scrunching up all the excess looseness into a drape at the center bust line. As a skirt that won’t work well – I don’t want bumps under untucked tops. Nor do I want a gathered waist as it might look too frumpy.

So I added front darts and gathered all the looseness into a pleat positioned at one of these darts. I also deepen the back darts for a better fit.

Rather than waistband I raised the waist 1″ and complete with shaped facing. I’m avoiding horizontal lines at the waist because my low bust and short waist already make my upper body look squat.

The fabric actually is a bit stretchy – it’s a poly-spandex mix. I could have made it into a pull on skirt. But I wanted a tight fit around the waist and avoid bagginess from over-stretching the fabric. So I’ve kept the invisible zipper that was already in the dress. I also stablized the waist seam with clear elastic sewn into the waist seam allowance – a trick I picked up from a few Victoria’s Secret skirts and dresses.

So here are the mug shots:

Gosh my bum’s flat. Like Great Plains flat. Ah, the joy of aging. Not.

The obligatory Frou-Frou:

Now no project of mine would be complete without the non-committal extra frilly bits. So it is with this skirt.

The decapitated top has been turned into this hook on sash.

The front left & right top pieces were stitched together on 3 sides. Ditto with back left & right top pieces. Both turned inside out, pleated at the open end. One has the pleated open end’s seam allowance turned under. The second one’s open end was then tucked into first one’s open end, then slipped stitched in place. I used a flat skirt / pants hook for a secure and discreet attachment to the skirt.

On the skirt side, I added a blanket stitched thread loop at the waist seam edge. It’s unobtrusive when the sash isn’t attached, but close enough to the skirt right side so that the sash would hang right when attached.

So there you go, a few more years squeezed out of an old dress! Told you I was Scottish in my previous life. Don’t ask me to do a Scottish accent though.

Overlocker Virgin No More. Just.

So I finally sat myself down and read through the Bernina 1150MDA overlocker manual. It’s only been 7 months since I got it as a present.

Truth be told I was scared of that beast. Compared to a sewing machine it just seems so complicated, so daunting. So many parts. So many thread paths. So many thread spools. So big a spool of thread!

Join a class you say? Easier said then done I say. For an introvert type. Who live in part of London without any sewing machine shop near by. And who doesn’t drive. Not even bike.

So it was with trepidation that I finally put the spool guide on and turned to page 1. Now I never read manuals. But I read this one cover to cover. Almost.

And actually it wasn’t that bad – serging my first practice swatch. But you won’t find me whipping up a wrap dress like the Selfish Seamstress on her first date with her Babylock.

No, I’ll be taking baby steps.

Next stop, figuring out how to live without pinning. And how to guide the fabric so that I’m sewing on the seam line with the 5/8″ pre-trimmed seam allowance.

Any tips and advice from all you overlocker old timers?

Finished at last! Bar a few finishing touches.

No, not a new make. That would be too much to expect.

Rather, it’s my new ‘sunny’ happy sewing room. ‘Sunny’ in quote because it’s actually not a sunny room, being north-facing in gloomy London. But the colors are certainly cheerful. Reminds me of sunny Mexico or Mediterranean.

Here it is with my new Horn Eclipse cabinet all set up. Well, sort of. I’m still trying to figure out where to place the overlocker for a comfortable serging. And wondering if I can squeeze an embroidery machine in there somehow. Not that I have one yet. But one can always dream…

Here it is with the cabinet closed…

It’s a shame that with all the furniture in place, my back-breaking paint work is all but covered up. That’s like 10 layers of color-wash and varnishes on the walls and ceilings!

Here it is before the furniture all went back to their corners…

That lovely band of aqua color-wash is as inviting as a pool under the hot sun. Even if I don’t swim I still want to jump into it.

The woodwork have been glazed over with cream-tinted clear varnish to remedy my mistake of getting paint a shade too dark.

I’ve since found out from the experts that when you choose a medium to dark shade on a paint color stripe card, you should go with a shade lighter than the one that you think you want from the card. That’s because when you go from a small swatch to a big wall, the color intensifies and it will appear darker than the small swatch you chose from.

But I quite like the end result anyway. It reminds me of rustic glazed tiles. Damn, now I feel like a margarita!

And here’s a reminder of my inspiration for this cheery color scheme…

And here’s a reminder of what it looked like before…

Not the best picture, but you can still see the rather plain Jane Shaker color scheme. Most definitely time for a change!

OK, now I run out of excuse for not sewing.

In which I contribute to Her Majesty’s Coffer

So the patterns arrived. Unfortunately I always forget about import charges – a whopping £11 on goods worth only £15.30. Actually most of it is Royal Mail’s handling charges.

The guy at the post office told me I had just missed the threshold for free import by 30p. Turns out that on goods worth less than £15 there is no charge. So one less pattern and I would have saved some money. Bummer.

In the end these patterns worked out to be £6.04 per pattern. How I wish I still live in the States sometimes.

So what do rest of you UK folks do? Where do you get dirt cheap Big 4 patterns from? Or do you stick to Burda magazines for affordable patterns?

What do you do when you can’t sew?

Why go shopping of course!

This time it’s patterns, not fabrics. I had seen this Donna Karan Vogue Pattern for a cowl neck top (v1282) and lusted after it. But not at $19.20.

So I waited. And waited. And waited for that spam mail about $4.99 sale. But nothing came. I must have been blacklisted. Or my spam filter gotten too diligent.

As luck would have it, while investigating the problem I checked the Vogue Pattern site a couple of days ago and it was…wait for it…$3.99 a pop! And McCalls Patterns at $1.99 a pop. OK, add on international shipping and it’s no longer dirt cheap, but it’s still the cheapest I’ve ever paid for Vogue Patterns. So I popped for 7 – the cut off point at which shipping cost jumps a whopping 120%.

V1282 I hope will work for this non-spandex cotton knit I have in a lovely turquoise leopard print.

I think I’ll also make one with the gold fabric I salvaged from this Victoria Secrets convertible dress that’s just too tarty for my taste. As you see though, it drapes quite nicely, so should be a good fit for this pattern.

So apart from v1282, I also got:

Vogue Pattern 1258

The pattern photo actually doesn’t do much for me. I got this on account of Erika B’s and Allison C’s versions. It’s good to know that models don’t always wear it better! Hurrah for real women.

Having said that, the Vena Cava – Fall 2010 original does look quite good on the model.

Vogue Pattern 1233

because it’s just too cute…and…

Vogue Pattern 8774

because I haven’t got any jeans pattern and this one doesn’t look not too momsy.

Vogue Pattern 8701

Again the photos don’t do much for me. But the drawings reveal a jacket with potential, and a raglan dress that can be a classic block.

Maybe the jacket in a gray denim? Tailored denim – I like that: Somewhat unexpected combinations. Just like a jean made from a more formal fabric that I saw in agnès b homme ages ago

McCall Pattern 2718

Yes, another fitting pattern – I seem to be forever fiddling with fitting! I’m already on my second Vogue fitting pattern. The first one was when I was size 8 too many decades ago. The second a fatter size 12.

But having read Palmer/Pletsch’s Fit For Real People book, I’m persuaded that I had gotten the wrong size based on full bust measurement as instructed by Vogue Pattern instead of high bust measurement recommended in the book.

If I was going to get a new fitting pattern I might as well get Palmer/Pletsch’s latest – McCall’s version. They had designed the original Vogue version in 1975, but have since refined the technique. This new McCall version supposedly has more fitting guidance built in. We shall see if anything come out of this nth fitting attempt!

McCall Pattern 6464

While I was at it, I thought I might as well try one of Palmer/Pletsch’s patterns for McCall and see if they are easier to fit properly.

This shift dress, while nothing special, does look rather elegant with an empire waist in the front dropping to natural waist in the back. Another classic block me thinks.

Now I just need to finish painting my sewing room without fainting or getting too high from the fumes!