OK, let’s get down and dirty. First off…
Size Selection & Pattern Alteration
I used my TNT cowl T pattern McCall 6078 to compare the Burda sizes with. 34 came closest, though according to sizing chart I’d be between 36 & 38 by bust measurement. I think Fit for Real People mentioned Burda 34 is equivalent of Vogue size 8, which is what I’m now using as my go to size with FBA.
Overlaying size 34 Burda 2012-09-123 (translucent tracing paper) on my adjusted M6078 (opaque paper), I decided for the back pattern to follow the M6078 shoulder line and side seam, trace the neck and arm scythe seam lines but cut on the Burda pattern cut lines.
The front was harder to compare since M6078 is cowl neck. So bust up is probably wider than a standard T-shirt block would require. So the only change I made initially is to graded out to size 36 at the underarm to match M6078.
Muslin no. 1
OK, these aren’t the initial results. I forgot to take pictures. These are after I made some further tweaks:
- Lower CB neck slightly.
- 1/2″ sloping shoulder adjustment on front.
- Truing the side seams by adjusting the front side seam curve to match back side seam curve – making sure that CF and CB are parallel (front pattern is now about 1/2″ wider).
- Lowered underarm part of arm scythe by about 3/4″.
I thought I’d fit the bodice first.
All in all I thought it fitted relatively well. I think I’m giving up on the sway-back adjustment for knit. I just can’t seem to completely get rid of those wrinkles in the lower back.
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Then sleeves on. And what’s this?
They weren’t kidding about sleeves stretching things out were they? And I thought I was being clever fitting the bodice first to avoid any problem there throwing off the sleeves. Maybe that theory would work better with woven.
Part of problem might have been the wrong choice of fabric. This mid to hefty weight 100% cotton interlock jersey from Tissu Fabrics / Tia Knight stretches and stay stretched…Until the next time you wash it maybe. Then it’ll probably shrink on you. It is however quite lovely to touch and to sew with. The color range is also fabulously vibrant. Bright enough to need sunglasses.
But I don’t know. It’s not really me. I just can’t think of what to do with a fabric like this with little drape, a bit of heft, yet not stable enough for a light jacket or something.
I had used up some of the Turquoise for an earlier T-shirt Block attempt based on McCall 6612. I don’t feel chic in the result. So it’s only worn at home as a slob out top. Hence I’m not feeling motivated to use up what’s left of the Turquoise. I’m not even motivated to finish this first muslin.
And I still haven’t touched the 3 meters of the Bright Orange! This might be the rare occasion when I give away the fabric, send it to a better parent who know how to cultivate it to get the best out of it.
BTW the colors in the shop photos aren’t quite accurate. Even my Turquoise photos here look different from real life. It’s a bit duller and less blue. But the Bright Orange is brighter and not so yellowish and warm. That’s the peril of internet shopping. But I did read somewhere that Tissu Fabrics do send out swatches. Trouble is I’ve just never been patient enough to wait for swatches through the post!
Anyway, the pattern is now further adjusted and ready for Muslin no. 2. Stayed tuned.
Yes I had the same problem with a stretch bodice drafted by Aldrich. That sleeve fold is due to insufficient sleeve cap height. Also, you might want to pin the second sleeve to get a better idea on the fit, because one has pulled the whole top to the side
This post is really helpful- thanks!
You’re very welcome! 🙂
You are so good with muslins and tweaking the fit of your garments. I learn so much from your photos and explanations! Sewing with wovens is my first love, as much as I love the idea of sewing knits. it’s a completely different ball game, and I must confess I don’t bother doing perfect fitting with the stretchy fabrics myself, although I always to the mandatory FBA!! hehe
🙂 I’m really not that good about doing muslins. I’m only investing the time now in the hope I won’t have to do muslins with every commercial pattern. Plus being able to develop my own patterns once I have basic core set done & fitted!
BTW, how do you do your knit FBA? I still haven’t quite work out a good way that works well. Have you written about it? Can you share the link?
You can see my first FBA done on a knit here: http://wp.me/p10rnC-51 I always do this adjustment on a crossover or wrap style knit for obvious reasons. I do have a cheat version that I use for a snug fit across the bust: shorten the back by 2″ which is my usual short-waist adjustment and then dart in the extra length on the front side seam just under the armscye. This allows for the length I need to ensure the front doesn’t pull up and yet I still get a snug fit across the bust.
So you sew up the added dart always? Even for knit?
I’m beginning to sense that I have to do the same for less stretchy knits like wool jersey. There seems to be no other way of getting a smooth wrinkle-free fit otherwise.
But for stretchier knit I’m wondering whether a FBA is necessary at all, or if there’s a way to do it without adding a dart. I’ve tried easing the dart uptake into a shorter back side seam, but didn’t like the resulting bubble on the front side seam. So the search is still on.
Yeah, I tried doing the ease version, too, but the only way to get the tidy look was with a dart. I’m following your search, so please post about it! If there’s a different way of doing it, without a dart, then I’m all for that! I agree with the darts not being an option on a more stable knit like doubleknit or wool jersey, but on a printed rayon, it works well enough and the print camouflages the dart seam.