Not one to waste scraps, I used the 21” x 58” leftover from my Endless Dress to make a cowl neck top.
During the last Vogue / McCall / Butterick sales I got a few basic but classic patterns. So there were two cowl neck patterns to choose from. I’m sure there are more in the few issues of Burda Style magazine I own. But I don’t like how Burda tends to drape the cowl to one side or use stiff fabrics that resulting in a single ungraceful large fold. For me cowl neck is all about Grecian style: Lots of fluid mini folds.
The Pattern
So the candidates were:
In the end I went with M6078 view B. M6563 is designed for woven fabrics, so had more ease than M6078. And more ease means more unnecessary alterations. Sometimes it’s best to go with the instruction and not make grief for yourself!
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Style Shots & Mug Shots
Fabric & Notions Used
Mustard color Viscose Cotton Lycra 4-way Stretch Fabric from Tia Knight / Tissu Fabrics. It’s soft and drapy – perfect for a cowl neck.
Gutermann polyester thread, and some woolly nylon I got in America long time ago. 3/8” clear elastic. Vilene Bias Tape
Size Used
XS (4 – 6).
Having read on Pattern Review that the sizing runs big, I was careful to go by the finished bust, waist, and hip measurements indicated on the patterns rather than by standard sizing chart. Sizing chart would have me using a M (12 – 14). But recently I’ve been experimenting with using my old sizing (8 / S) with a FBA or otherwise widening at the side seams rather than all around. However, as this pattern is for knit and I like a more fitted look, I went down one more size to XS.
Changes Made
I compared the pattern to my tentative moderate stretch sloper first before deciding what fitting changes to make.
- Narrowed lower back 1/4” – 1/2”.
- Sway-back adjustment – shortened CB by 3/4”. There’s still a bit of fold at back waist line, but I don’t mind it in this style of slightly drapy top.
- Raised back neckline 3/8”.
- Widen shoulder by 1/4”.
- Prominent shoulder blade adjustments – added 1/4” ease to back shoulder.
- Forward shoulder adjustment on front only – raised front shoulder at neck 1/4”.
- Deepen front-facing to 6” at CF (insurance to prevent the facing from flipping out).
- Cut on the lengthwise grain because I didn’t have enough fabric. This was fine on a 4-way (or 2-way) stretch fabric. If mine was a fabric with only 1-way (crosswise) stretch, then I wouldn’t deviate unless I go with a larger size with enough ease built into the pattern itself.
Verdict on the Instruction
Easy to follow and quick to make. I did deviate in places though.
I did a Burda style stabilized back back neckline and armholes using Vilene Bias Tape, then clear elastics to stabilize shoulder seams. All seams are done on sewing machine with lowered foot pressure, walking foot, and narrow zig-zag stretch stitch. Side and shoulder seams and the bottom hem are finished with 3-thread overlock on the serger. Neckline, armholes, and bottom hem are stitched with stretch stitch.
For a softer drape and because my fabric doesn’t fray, I left the facing edge unfinished.
Would I sew it again
Most definitely! It’s a great wardrobe builder. I could see this with long sleeves as well. It’s slightly loose in the waist, so if I were to use a less drapy fabric I might narrow through the waist a bit more.
I haven’t sewed in years, but soon to approach my first project. Your explanations are a huge fountain of great information that teaches how to use your head and be smart about fitting and alterations. More and more, I want to go see what “Stash” is doing! 🙂
Thank you so much! That was my intention for sharing my experiences both good and the bad: To be able to inspire or help others as other bloggers and community sites have helped me.
I look forward so seeing what you make!