OK one last blog catch-up before I go back down the rabbit hole….I made this bag & wallet set last year. Now while I can’t recall all the details for you, I can at least update you on how they held up…or not!
I don’t know about you, but I’m one of those people who love things to death. This just-big-enough & reassuringly-secure-crossbody RTW bag I bought on holiday a few years ago is a case in point. It’s probably made from plastic leather, so the strap had started to crack and in danger of literally hanging by the threads. Plus one of the metal strap clips have broken. Super-glue & electrical tape tide me over for a while. But it was time to make my own replacement, not least because I would like it to be just a little bit more personalised to my needs: While it’s my favourite amongst my RTW bags, it just a tad too small and with too few inner pockets. The wallet bought from the same shop also can be improved by having a separate coin pockets and be more accommodating of different size notes – especially the yucky plasticky new £5 & £10 notes that don’t fold well.
The Design & Pattern
So here are the originals by zzzz2005: compared to my replacements:
- Bigger bag body (2″ wider & deeper)
- More inside pockets: 2-tier pockets for cards & keys + extra pockets for pen, phone, misc.
- Simple non-detachable strap attachment. The original bag used swivel clips & the straps would get all twisted over time. Plus clips just seem less secure, easier to break.
- Custom print for the flap. I do actually like the original print a lot, so could have cannibalise the original bag to reuse the print. But I decided to fix & keep the original bag as well for those times when the smaller size would do.
This is a love-child of the one I got from the same shop & the Paul Smith wallet I got for DH, peppered with Make Supply’s tips on making leather wallet.
- Base design is modeled after the Paul Smith folded wallet construction
- Sizing-wise I changed it to match my wallet when folded as that dimension fits my smaller hand better
- Changed one side’s card pockets to a zipped coin pocket
- Followed Make Supply’s approach to card pockets even though I’m using thinner fabric instead of leather for these inner pockets
- Added custom prints for one side of wallet outside & coin pocket
For the custom prints…
I ended up using Printfab UK‘s fabric printing service. I looked into the high street photo printing services, but they mostly offer printing onto finished goods – cushions, wall canvas artworks – which means higher prices and more work to recover the fabric for sewing. In addition to per metre pricing, Printfab also offers metric Fat Quarter size (printable area 70cm x 50cm with 0.5cm unprinted border, rather than the smaller imperial FQ size of 8″ x 22″/ 46cm x 56cm). Their fabric choices are all cotton apart from one linen-cotton mix & range from lightweight Cotton Muslin (66gsm) to heavier Cotton Hopsack (398gsm). I went for mid-weight Cotton Half Panama (230gsm) to minimise bulk, especially as I’m adding a protective clear plastic layer on top of the print like the original bag & wallet. The Fat Quarter size is enough for me to decorate 4 bags & 4 wallets. Mine cost £12.78 including VAT & UK domestic shipping and arrived more quickly than I expected – ordered late Saturday night & it arrived on Wednesday.
For the prints, I had trouble sourcing the same vintage Chinese ad poster print, or similar ones that I like as much. So I initially went with some Tang Dynasty scroll paintings with a fabric / sewing theme (“Fang Lady With Servants” by Tang Dynasty painter Zhou Fang and “Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk” by Tang Dynasty painter Zhang Xuan). It took a fair bit of image hacking to cajole these into the shapes & sizes I needed. But there was enough scenes to compose a couple of matching sets. After finding out that the Fat Quarter was bigger than I expected, I decided to make the effort and recreate a similar old Chinese ad poster design as the original bag. I didn’t bother with matching wallets for this design, instead cobbled together a couple of design meaningful to me, one a fabricholic quote that maybe some of you can relate to too! 🙂
I was originally going to use clear PVC fabric to protect the print – like in the original bag & wallet. But the one I bought from Aamzon had that nasty toxic smell. I hung it outside to air & I think it flew away. Oops. So I ended up laminating the print instead.
Fabric & Notions Used
- Fake embossed alligator (?) leather from Deco Design Fabrics, 512 E 9th St in Downtown LA (bought too long ago!).
- Custom print cotton half-panama from Printfab UK laminated with Vlieseline Lamfix Glossy,
- Wallet innards: coated linen mesh from B&J – the coating makes the fabric fray-free & also came in handy for hems as the coating melt when pressed at low temp, thus fusing the hems in place, removing the need for hem stitching.
- Lining: water repellant nylon from B&J
- Closure: velcro for bag, recycled zip for wallet coin pocket
- Handle: PU leather strap, rectangle-rings, buckle
- Other notions & tools: Thermoweb Heat-n-Bond Ultra Iron-On Adhesive, Coats Nylbond uphostery nylon thread; Guttermann extra-strong polyester thread; Double-sided tapes (one was the “leather tape” from Wawak); 2″ brayer; Fiebling’s Edge Kote from Tandy Leather
As always, step documentation of my self-drafts are sparse on the ground. Here’s what I can reconstruct interrogating the finished bag & wallet…
- Sew Pocket top hems
- Fold Pocket sides SAs
- Fold Front Pocket at double layer foldline
- Fold Pocket bottom SAs
- Sew Pocket to Lining – sides, bottom, divider – except the Back Pocket side that goes across the bag left side
- Sew velcro to Shell Front & Flap Lining
- Fold Bag Shell & Lining in half lengthwise & sew side seams, sew bottom triangles to form bottom side seams
- Sew Back Pocket final side & bottom that go across bag left side
- Baste Flap Shell & Lining together along all edges, Bag Shell & Lining together at top edge
- Tape binding to Flap side & bottom edges, topstitch
- Baste Flap to Bag at top edge
- Tape binding to top edge, topstitch
- Glue strap layers together, topstitch
- Thread strap through buckle & rectangle-rings, fold back ends & hand sew in place
- Thread strap tabs through rectangle-rings, fold in half, hand sew to bag side seams
This one was even more hairy. I resorted to a paper prototype to work out how to pull it together. But even this + the finished wallet don’t yield up a clear picture of the order of construction. So below is again my best guess.
- Sew Outer Print & FLeather RS-together, topstitch seam
- Trim FLeather SA, Fold Print SA & Outer Lining SA to wrong sides
- Fuse Outer Lining to Outer Print-FLeather, Fuse Coated Linen facing to Lining top edge
- Fuse interfacing to Inner Lining wrong side
- Sew Bridge to Coin Pocket left edge RS-together, Press SA towards Coin Pocket
- Sew Zipper to Coin Pocket-Bridge & Inner Lining top edges
- Sew Coin Pocket-Bridge & Inner Lining right & bottom edges r-s-together, Turn right side out
- Edge-stitch Bridge to Inner Lining (closing off the Coin Pocket in the process), Fold Inner Lining remaining SA to wrong side
- Hem all Car Pockets top edges (in my case, turn & fuse with iron)
- Sew stacked Card Pockets & Receipts Pocket right edge WS-to-RS, Fold SA inside Receipts Pocket, Topstitch/Fuse SA in place
- Working from top Card Pockets down, sew each Card Pocket lower edge to Receipts Pocket WS-to-RS
- Fold Card+Receipts Pockets top, left, bottom SA to wrong side, Top-stitch to Inner Lining WS-together
- Top-stitch Bridge bottom edge & corresponding Outer bottom edge separately
- Align Inner & Outer bottom edges, Top-stitching the layers together starting from Coin Pocket left edge across its bottom edge, up right edge, top edge of Outer only, down Card-Receipt Pockets left edge, across its bottom edge, ending at its right edge.
- While the RTW bag fell apart in the material, my me-made fell apart at the seams. Maybe I should give rivets a go to reinforce the strap tabs attachment,
- The Shell fabric I used may also be a bit too soft to hold up the goodies in the pockets – the Front top edge keep folding inward from the weight.
- The laminated prints also did not hold up well. They look rather grubby with daily love. Combined with the softer Shell, there’s now a tear in the laminate where the bag bent naturally around my hip. May have to go back to the stinky PVC idea. But unfortunately I laminated all the remaining prints. Not sure adding an extra layer of PVC would be enough to prevent laminate tear & grubbiness or whether I should attempt to detach the laminate…or maybe even order replacement prints.
On the plus side, one girl in the office loves the bag enough to want to buy one-off me. Of course I said no. At least not until I sort out quality assurance issues. Then again Gen Z & Fast Fashion go hand-in-hand. Maybe she wouldn’t subject one to the daily abuse mine goes through.
The wallet is holding up much better, though again the laminates look a bit grubby from the get-go. Practicality-wise it’s an A.
Sets 2-4 are already cut. One of these days I’ll get around to them. For now shabby chic will do!