Can’t do without…flatbed sewing set-up

I notice a lot of sewing bloggers I follow have very simple machine-on-table sewing set-up. Many are advanced sewers. Which leaves me thinking maybe my sewing skill just ain’t up to scratch. You see, I can’t seem to sew straight if I don’t have a flatbed set-up – ie large surface around the machine that is the same level as the machine sewing surface.

setup_flat-bed-sewing For my sewing machine, I got a sewing cabinet which has adjustable platform for flatbed & free-arm sewing, as well as hiding the machine away when not in use. For my overlocker I’ve had to improvise with stacks of books for now as there isn’t space for more sewing cabinet!

But now there’s a chance that we might move abroad because of MR’s work, I’m considering getting portable flatbed extension tables. There’s a couple that I’m drooling over…

Sew Steady “Wish Table” Portable Sewing Machine Extension

Shame this one isn’t adjustable for different machine shapes like this one below…

What about you? Do you love flatbed sewing or managed to do without just fine?

And a couple more distractions…

  1. I finally change Q’s feet so she won’t run away from me as I stick pins into her while draping / fitting. I’ve had to replace all four castor wheels as the new ones with locks aren’t the same height as the old ones.
  2. My pattern-drafting / cutting tool drawer was getting a bit unwieldy. So I finally got a couple of cutlery drawer inserts to keep things in place. Sadly the inserts are a bit chunky & not adjustable, so there now less room for stuff. But at least I can find the bits I need when I need them…for now.

OK, better get back to my furry projects. I could really do with some of those surgical masks that everyone in the Far East wear. I’m choking on the fine mohair bits flying everywhere as I cut & sew!

Needle Bulk-Pack sources

A couple of you asked where I bought my needle bulk-packs. I’m not particularly loyal I’m afraid. I’d Google & Amazon & Ebay for the best price & convenience for a particular order. The two shops I’ve used when buying in bulk are:

Both offers free shipping to continental US for order $20+. (Schmetzneedles.com has $20 minimum order policy.) Both takes international order on their website. Worldweidner.com currently has a 10% off first order offer using coupon/voucher code “firstorder“.

For this particular order World Weidner worked out cheaper & more convenient because they had all the needles I wanted. It still was a big chunk of money, but cheaper than if I bought the 490 needles the usual way. My subtotal was $388.92, minus discount $38.89, plus international shipping $23.80. The final total was $373.83 (£237.85) or 76¢ (49p) per fancy needle. Yeah, I got lucky this time. I was expecting a hefty customs charge + 20% VAT (sales tax) + handling fee. But luckily the Post Office didn’t asked for any & I wasn’t about to argue with them! 😀

Xmas comes early!

Look what goodies came through the post yesterday!

IMG_20150625_181057
So far this year has been more productive than the last few. So I’m running low on a few favorite sizes of needles. I thought it’s about time I try bulk-buy boxes of 100. But what shapes & sizes?

It was really hard deciding. It’s just not practical to follow the sewing experts’ advice to choose the right needle & thread for each project. With a stash as big & varied as mine, I’d need a whole warehouse & lots of mullah to do that. Needle manufacturers & their rather generic descriptions & instructions don’t exactly help either. Like really, what is the practical difference between a Stretch needle and a Jersey/Ball-Point needle? What would happen if I use a Stretch needle on a jersey or sweater knit? Can you really spot the difference between the two? And if you can, can you explain why one would work better than the other for one fabric vs another? I sure can’t.

IMG_20150626_175731I do have a pack of Ball-Point needles, but I have not used a single one. Besides, various articles say to try Stretch needle if skipped stitches continues to be a problem even with a Ball-Point. So why not just use a Stretch needle in the first place?

Anyway, I checked my fabric stash for dominate types/weight of fabrics. I also made note of the needle types/sizes I used more often and those that languish unloved in my notion stash. Then I made the executive decision to only order in bulk the smaller sizes of Microtex (60/8, 70/10, 80/12) and Stretch needles (75/11).

Oh do not weep for the other types/sizes. I do have some in my stash. And as you can see I’ve added small packs of other types/sizes in this order as well. And yeap, I now have a spreadsheet to track this stash as well… 🙂

needle-inventory

Now the bulk-buys…For some reason the 75/11 Stretch needles came as 20 packs of 5/pack rather than a box of 100 like the Microtex needles. Which is a shame as I was trying to cut down on wasteful packaging. Of course Twin/Triple-Needles are the worst offenders, or at least the Schmetz ones are.

IMG_20150626_180726I mean come on, you can easily fit 3 such needles in a pack. So OK, they’re not cheap and maybe 3/pack will not sell well. But those of us who use twin needles in lieu of proper cover stitch will have to buy extras sooner or later anyway. In fact I splashed for 15 this time. You betcha I’m consolidating these 15 needles into 5 packs. Save precious sewing space at least even if it doesn’t help save the planet.

So what do you do with your empty needle packaging? I can’t think of a good way to recycle/upcycle them.

And do you think my 603 needles will be enough for my 865 yds of fabrics? (See, you’re not so bad after all! 😉

Now if only I have the right size threads in the right colors to go with these…

Lessons from MMM’15

I am glad I joined in this year. I have learned a lot. But I don’t think I will officially join in again next year. It was really hard work and disruptive of my sewing routine because like most of you I can’t sew without making a mess. And constantly shuffling the mess around to make room for less embarrassing photos made it impossible to get any sewing done.

Striking a Pose

mmm15-outtakesOver 850 photos were taken just to get the 31 finally shown. And some of the chosen ones were subjected to photo tinkering – like color ‘correction’ / filtering, ‘cloning’ out distracting details like light switch and any mess I forgot to clear out of the frame. I didn’t resort to digital nip-tuck, but the very nature of the camera angle makes the proportion in some photos look nothing like my real figure. Just saying all this so that you know that any good photo I posted didn’t come easily, and with some effort I firmly believe anyone can look good in photos. So I encourage you all to play around with your photos if you have the time. Let’s show the fashion industry that real people can also look artistic & fabulous!

On the positive side photo-wise, I now have a wider range of approaches to play with. Previously my project style shots were staid full-figure tripod set-up which always takes a long time to set up. Now I feel more comfortable playing with informal camera phone that doesn’t take much set up at all.

Also, it was a good exercise in the discipline of editorial selection. When you take so many photos in a session, the temptation is to post a lot of the same thing. From a reading perspective, that’s fine if each reveals some interesting / useful new details. But otherwise it can get a bit boring after the first few photos. So I’m going to try to be more disciplined and at least vary the photo angle / composition / details if I post more than one photo of the same project / outfit.

What I’ve been working on…

I tried my best, but I didn’t manage to wear every single item I made that’s still in my possession. Some of it was due to inappropriate weather. But a few despite looking OK initially turned out to be duds long term. MMMs shone such a brutally honest lights on these. Some of these I’m trying to fix…

Self-drafted Sari Top:

I never blogged this. It was based on an older bodice sloper and suffered from lack of breathing ease and provision for uneven shoulder. So despite the most beautiful metallic border and luscious red silk I’ve only worn it twice. And with difficulty. You saw me working on this in the last week of MMM’15. But I didn’t finish in time. And the result is still not stellar. But at least now I can breath in it. And the border more than justify keeping it. I must source more of these Indian sari top fabrics! Saris are such beautiful outfits.

Emami / Bradbury Endless Dress + Self-drafted Bandeau Tube Top + McCall 6078 Cowl Neck T :


Again beautiful dress but a PITA to wear. The heavy skirt keeps pulling the tube bodice down. But when worn with the separate tube top, there’s too much overlap resulting in a Shar Pei effect, cute on a pooch, not so much on a lady. I’m in the process of redoing the skirt waistband – I think no more than 2″ in height at most since I’m not fond of yoga waistbands. I’m hoping the scrap will be enough to make a strapless top to replace the separate tube top. I will need to figure out the best way to add a shelf bra for such strapless top. Any suggestions?

The hope is that together these remakes will give me a couple of more wearable options and a more streamlined look when they’re worn together. I also need to tighten and shorten the matching McCall 6078 Cowl Neck T. Using the wrong grain for this resulted in a rather shapeless sack over time. Maybe the offcut will come handy for reworking the tube top.

Ditch or Fix?

Ohhh Lulu Betty Retro Hot Pants
I’m debating whether to fix or ditch this attempt at retro hot pants. The leg holes are like tourniquets. After a minute I feel my legs no more. There’s also pooling in my lower back and crotch. I think these problems are all fixable. But MR calls this my Adult Diaper. And the prospect of wearing it outside the house is zilch. Beach holidays where this might be acceptable will become increasingly unlikely. So ditch?

Burda 2011-08-112 Cape
I was really proud of the worksmanship in this one. And I have emotional attachment to the fabric as it’s inherited from my Mom’s youth. But cape just does not work for me. Despite my precautions I still feel like an short squat American Footballer in this. And cold at the same time with the wind whooshing in & out as it pleases. I’d donate to a charity shop, except I don’t think it’d be ‘properly’ appreciated :.( I wish I had made a normal jacket / coat with the fabric. Wonder if it’s still possible…

One thing for sure, I will never jump on the jumpsuit bandwagon. Like capes, sometimes it’s best to just admire the style from the sideline, living vicariously through the Ladies who Can!

 

The Not So Impressive Stash

Well this is a bit embarrassing. After all the hoopla about my fabric acquisitions it turns out I have very little of interest to show.

Don’t get me wrong. I have been naughty. Quantity-wise anyway. The load came in at 63+ yards, not 43+ yards as I claimed earlier. But it seems like I’ve been way too good in sticking to my boring shopping list. The bulk of my purchases are dull Dull DULL to show & tell.

So here’s a group shot to spare you too much excruciating details!

2014-10-nyc-fabrics

From left to right:

  • Sweater pile: Sweater & rib knits from NY Elegant and B&J.
  • Cardigan pile: 5 sets of sweater + rib knits for cardigans from NY Elegant and Mood.
  • Foundation pile: I thought I might tackle foundation wear this coming year. So I got some Powernet & Milliskin from Spandex World, plus foam fused poly lining from B&J which I hope is like the stuff they use for bra pads.
  • SWAP pile: Mostly important but boring supporting casts from B&J, Mood, and NY Elegant for upcoming projects, such as…
  • Just 4 Fun pile: Tame by many of your standards, but as exciting as life gets around here. Mostly from cheap & wacky Spandex World, but a couple from B&J and Mood.
  • Ooh Charmeuse pile: Just because it’s so hard to find Charmeuse in London I got a few more from Mood.

As you can see I got mine from only four stores. It was just too overwhelming otherwise. Especially when I’m shopping with a list and luggage limit. If I were living locally I’d probably shop more from the smaller stores and go with an open mind. But with a list, I find huge stores that have good organizations easier. I can see at a glance whether they have the type of fabric I need in the color I need. It does mean paying more. But my sanity is worth it!

Of the four I go to, I’d say NY Elegant is the most expensive, then B&J, then Mood, and Spandex World is pretty affordable though obviously specialized. NY Elegant & Mood seem to have a better selection of sweater knits. I do like NY Elegant’s system of swatches already attached to many fabric rolls. B&J has lots of fabrics on big sample cards so that it’s easier to browse, see the fiber content, and ask for samples. Some of the Mood fabrics are marked with famous designer names. But as they’re pretty basic looking fabric it seems a bit pointless to name-check. I’d save it for the more unique fabric designs. I mean who cares if your bog standard looking charmeuse is a Ralph Laren, right? 😉

There were also a bunch of notions. But I’ve already filed them away & can’t recall where they all are now. So just a couple of highlights here:

notions-1
Pacific Trimmings have these cool mix-n-match buttons where you pick a base and the accent to go in the center. There’s quite a variety of base and accents to choose from, and the base come in different sizes. How cool is that!

notions-2

I also got a couple of kits for fabric covered buckles from Daytona Trimmings (as well as more of that lovely bobbin lace I got last time). I’ve been looking for these for ages. They are so hard to come by these days. Granted the selection isn’t great – only two sizes, both big. But better than nothing.

I bought a fair few more buttons, including these gold ones from M&J Trimming (where I also got petersham ribbons in a few different colors). And big coat snaps, including gold ones from Pacific Trimmings. The black snap fasteners and the gold button with anchor motif in the striped jersey photo above are also from Pacific Trimming. So too are the bag D-rings, bag feet, and magnetic snaps. And RiRi zippers. And lingerie elastics. And eye & hook tapes. Boy, did they get my business this time or what!

But majority of my zippers are YKK that came from SIL Threads. I also got an Italian Lampo zipper from Botani Trimmings on recommendation from Clios. They’re suppose to be really high quality & expensive (she says Chanel use only Lampo). The ready-made metallic teeth one I got wasn’t too bad price-wise. And the zipper action IS super smooth – essential for a tote! I also got a custom reversible zipper in the smallest size available (#3) from Botani. Now that was expensive. The reversible skirt it’s destined for better be a success!

And that was it. Apart from these four pairs of shoes from Macy’s. I did leave four old pairs behind after all. So surely MR can’t complaint about my shoes stash, right?

shoes

Clockwise from top left: Michael Kors boots, Circa Joan & David pump, Circa Joan & David sling back, Alfani ballet flat