Following through with my SWAP F/A 2014, here’s the long sleeve shrug from the mohair gauze leftover.
The Inspiration, Design & Pattern
My inspiration was a shrug that I found at some online shop the name of which eludes me now. I briefly considered shrug patterns that were essentially a rectangle sewn into a tube with a stretch in the middle of the seam left unsewn. But I thought either the sleeve will be too loose or the bodice too small, so I went searching for other options. Burdastyle 2013-11-111 pattern has a bit of shaping to it so I thought it might make a good starting point.
Style Shots & Mug Shots
Size Used
I used 36 this time, which is what the size chart would have me use. I frequently use 34 for a better fit. But because the pattern was designed for knit, and I’m using woven, I decided to go with the size closest to my Top/Dress Block for wovens. In this case it was size 36.
Changes Made
Fitting changes
It was quite a visual process this time, so I’ll let the picture do the talking. You can see how I’ve laid my Top/Dress Block + Basic Sleeve Block together to assess the Burda pattern and decide what needs changing. I think the changes might be due to my sloping shoulder plus the posterior position & pitch of my arm joints.
Design changes
- Added 4″ knitted 2×2 rib for collar / bodice extension.
Fabric & Notions Used
- Cream Mohair Gauze (?) from Mood NYC.
- Rowan Kidsilk Haze silk & mohair yarn in Cream (634).
- Vilene Bias Tape.
Construction Notes
- Construction is pretty much the same as the Cowl-Neck A-line Sweater the Second. The neckline/back hem were stablized with Vilene Bias Tape & overlocked. The seams were stitched & 3-thread overlocked.
Collar/back hem extension is 2×2 ribs hand knitted with 2.75mm – 4.5mm needles, so it flares out without any increases to confuse me! 🙂 The casting on was again approx 8 stitches per inch & multiples of 4 (my rib pattern).- The sleeve hems I ended up hand-overcasting, then weaving in a few extra yarns near the edge so that they’re denser like the salvedge.
The Verdict
On the plus side I’m glad I added the knitted collar/back hem extension. This now feel more like a little bolero jacket that’ll stay on rather than detached sleeves that I might have to constantly tugged at. And the Oops…The sleeves on this one are a bit tight for something that’s a cover up. I can only wear this with short-sleeve & sleeveless tops. The fabric again makes it a delicate garment. And what’s with the mini-wings at my back armholes right?
I’ll wear this alright…if only I have more white / pale color clothing & accessories to go with it…
The wings – would not have noticed them (gosh, this is very pretty) if you hadn’t pointed them out. Perhaps the transition between the back and the swift narrowness of the sleeves? I think a shrug is not destined to be a fitted item and that it’s bound to have a pinch here and a bulge there.
Then again, I just may need more coffee.
I really like shrugs, I’m going to knit one someday soon, at least it will be a short knit, right? Impressed that you are fusing handknitting and wovens. Well done for modifying this pattern so successfully,